How to plan an overland route through West Africa

Planning an overland route in West Africa requires a loop starting and ending in a major hub like Accra or Dakar, prioritizing a single coastal or inland corridor to manage visa lead times. You must account for 3-5 days of 'cushion' time per border crossing to accommodate unpredictable transport schedules and logistical delays.

  1. Choose your corridor. Stick to the coastal route (Senegal to Ghana) if you want reliable bus infrastructure and frequent border crossings. Choose the inland route (Mali/Burkina Faso to Niger) only if you are an experienced overland traveler, as security conditions here change daily.
  2. Secure your visas in advance. Most West African visas are not available at borders. Apply for e-visas where possible, or use a visa service based in your home country to build a 'document stack' containing your itinerary, yellow fever card, and proof of onward travel before you depart.
  3. Map your transport segments. Do not plan to travel more than 300km in a single day. Use 'sept-place' (seven-seat) shared taxis for mid-range hops and STC or private coach lines for long-haul intercity connections.
  4. Budget for 'fixer' and facilitation costs. Set aside a daily cash buffer of $20 for unofficial but expected 'fees' at checkpoints or for local fixers who help navigate complex bus stations in major cities like Lomé or Cotonou.
Is it safe to travel overland in West Africa?
It varies significantly by region. Coastal routes are generally stable, but always check your home country's travel advisory site for the latest security updates in the Sahel regions.
Can I use credit cards for travel expenses?
No. West Africa is a cash-heavy economy. Carry enough USD to exchange for local currency at border towns, as ATMs are frequently offline or empty.