Navigating Guatemala’s Chicken Buses During the Rainy Season

Travel with a large, heavy-duty trash bag or waterproof pack cover to protect your luggage on the roof, as bus helpers will throw your gear up regardless of the downpour. Keep your most important belongings in a waterproof daypack on your lap, and always carry exact change to avoid fumbling with wet currency.

  1. Protect your roof-bound luggage. If you have a backpack, put it inside a heavy-duty trash bag before heading to the station. The 'ayudante' (bus helper) will tie your bag to the roof rack, and in the rainy season, you must assume it will be exposed to a tropical storm. Do not rely on their thin tarps.
  2. Secure your internal gear. Use a dry bag or a dedicated rain cover for your personal daypack. Keep your phone, passport, and extra cash inside a Ziploc bag within that pack. Keep this bag on your lap, never on the floor where water pools during heavy rain.
  3. Time your departures. In the rainy season, storms usually peak between 2:00 PM and 5:00 PM. Aim for morning departures between 6:00 AM and 9:00 AM to avoid the worst of the mud-related road delays that often plague the mountainous routes in the afternoon.
  4. Manage the mud. Wear footwear with aggressive tread. Chicken bus steps are metal, steep, and become extremely slick when passengers track mud and rainwater into the bus. Use the grab bars firmly.
Will the buses stop running if it rains?
Generally, no. Chicken buses are the lifeblood of the country and run through most storms. However, they may stop for a few hours if a mudslide blocks the road.
How do I know if the bus is safe to board?
If the bus has broken windshield wipers or bald tires, wait for the next one. Visibility drops significantly in the rain, and the drivers tend to maintain their high speeds regardless.