How to Plan a Backpacking Route Through West Africa

Start with Senegal or Ghana for easier entry points, plan 4-6 weeks minimum, and build your route around visa requirements and overland transport connections. Focus on 4-5 countries maximum to avoid visa complications and rushed travel.

  1. Choose your entry and exit points. Dakar (Senegal) and Accra (Ghana) are the most backpacker-friendly starting points with good flight connections and established traveler infrastructure. Lagos works if you're experienced with challenging travel conditions. Plan to fly out from the same region to keep costs down.
  2. Map your visa strategy first. West African visas are complex and expensive. Get your Ghana visa first ($150) as it's valid for 60 days and often required for other applications. Apply for Burkina Faso ($100) and Mali ($100) visas in Accra. Senegal offers visa-on-arrival for most nationalities. Avoid Nigeria unless you have specific reasons - the visa process is difficult.
  3. Plan around transport hubs. Build your route connecting major transport hubs: Dakar-Bamako-Ouagadougou-Kumasi-Accra works well overland. The Dakar-Bamako train runs twice weekly (24 hours, $40). Shared taxis connect most borders. Budget 1-2 days for each border crossing including delays.
  4. Time it for dry season. Travel November through March. Rainy season (May-October) makes overland travel difficult with washed-out roads and closed routes. Harmattan winds in December-February create dust storms but roads stay passable.
  5. Book yellow fever vaccination early. Required for entry to all West African countries. Get vaccinated at least 10 days before travel. Carry your yellow card everywhere - you'll be asked for it at every border and often at hotels.
  6. Plan accommodation flexibility. Hostels are rare outside major cities. Budget for guesthouses ($15-25/night) and occasional hotels ($40-60/night) in capitals. In smaller towns, expect basic rooms with shared bathrooms. Always inspect rooms before paying.
Is overland travel safe in West Africa?
Generally yes on main routes during daylight hours. Avoid travel at night, check current security situations in Mali and Burkina Faso, and always travel with other backpackers when possible. Register with your embassy.
How reliable are buses and shared taxis?
Shared taxis are more reliable than buses but more expensive. Expect delays, breakdowns, and stops for police checkpoints. The Dakar-Bamako train is your most comfortable option. Always carry snacks and water.
Do I need to speak French?
Basic French helps enormously outside Ghana. Most locals speak local languages first, French or English second. Download Google Translate offline and learn key phrases. In Ghana and parts of Nigeria, English works fine.
Can I get malaria medication locally?
Yes but quality varies. Get your antimalarials from a travel clinic before departure. Local pharmacies stock basic medications but may not have the specific prophylaxis recommended for chloroquine-resistant areas.