How to Plan a Complete 3-Week Madagascar Itinerary

A 3-week Madagascar itinerary should include 5-7 days in the north (Diego Suarez and Ankarana), 4-5 days in the central highlands (Andasibe-Mantadia), 6-7 days in the west (Avenue of the Baobabs and Tsingy), and 3-4 days in the south (Isalo National Park). Book domestic flights early as overland travel takes 2-3 times longer than expected.

  1. Choose your entry and exit points. Fly into Antananarivo (TNR) as it's the main international hub. Consider an open-jaw ticket if you want to end in Nosy Be (NOS) in the north to save backtracking time. Most international flights arrive late evening, so plan to stay your first night in Tana.
  2. Book domestic flights immediately. Madagascar Air and Tsaradia have limited schedules and sell out weeks ahead. Key routes: Tana-Diego Suarez (1hr vs 12hrs driving), Tana-Morondava (1hr vs 8hrs), Tana-Tulear (1.5hrs vs 10hrs). Expect to pay $150-250 per domestic flight.
  3. Plan your regions in logical order. Start north (Diego Suarez, Ankarana National Park), move to central highlands (Andasibe-Mantadia near Tana), then west coast (Morondava for baobabs and Tsingy), and finish south (Isalo, Zombitse). This minimizes backtracking and follows the best weather patterns.
  4. Book accommodations for key stops. Reserve rooms in Diego Suarez, Andasibe, Morondava, and Isalo village at least 2 weeks ahead. Madagascar has limited quality accommodation and popular lodges fill up. Camping is possible in national parks but requires advance permits.
  5. Arrange park permits and guides. All national parks require guides (hired at park entrances) and entrance fees paid in cash. Madagascar National Parks (MNP) offices in major towns can arrange multi-day permits. Guides cost 25,000-40,000 ariary per day per group.
  6. Plan buffer days for transport delays. Roads flood during rainy season (Nov-Mar) and vehicles break down frequently. Add one extra day between each major destination change. Keep 2-3 flexible days at the end for delays before your international departure.
Is it safe to self-drive in Madagascar?
Self-driving is challenging but possible with a 4WD vehicle. Roads are poorly maintained, signage is minimal, and fuel stations are sparse. Most travelers use hired drivers or join organized tours. If you self-drive, carry extra fuel, spare tires, and emergency supplies.
What's the best way to see lemurs in the wild?
Andasibe-Mantadia for indri lemurs (largest species), Ankarana for crowned lemurs, and Isalo for ring-tailed lemurs. Each park requires guides who know current lemur group locations. Early morning (6-9am) offers the best sightings when lemurs are most active.
How much cash should I bring?
Bring $1500-2000 in small denomination euros or dollars to exchange for ariary. ATMs exist only in major cities and often run out of cash. Credit cards work only in upscale hotels in Antananarivo. All park fees, guides, meals, and most accommodation must be paid in cash.
Can I do this itinerary during rainy season?
November-March rainy season makes many roads impassable, especially the route to Tsingy de Bemaraha. Andasibe and Isalo remain accessible but expect mud, leeches, and frequent rain. Dry season (April-October) is strongly recommended for first-time visitors.