Escaping the Mozart Trail in Salzburg
To see the real Salzburg, skip the center-city souvenir shops and head to the local hills, neighborhood markets, and the Mülln district. Focus your time on hiking the Mönchsberg, drinking at Augustiner Bräu, and visiting the lesser-known fortresses outside the old town.
- Hike the Mönchsberg ridge. Instead of taking the funicular up to the fortress, walk the ridge of the Mönchsberg. You get the same bird's-eye view of the city without the crowds, and you'll pass through quiet forest paths and hidden cliffside villas.
- Drink in the Mülln monastery. Head to Augustiner Bräu in the Mülln district. It is a massive, authentic beer hall run by monks. Buy a stone mug, rinse it yourself, and get it filled from the wooden barrel. Grab food from the 'market stalls' inside the hall rather than a formal restaurant.
- Explore the local side of the Salzach. Walk north along the Salzach River away from the Altstadt. Visit the St. Sebastian Cemetery, which is far quieter than the main catacombs, and explore the independent boutiques on Linzer Gasse.
- Visit Schloss Hellbrunn on a weekday. While popular, the trick-fountains tour at Hellbrunn is actually fun if you go on a weekday morning. Combine it with a walk through the surrounding nature reserve, which locals use for weekend exercise.
- Is Salzburg walkable?
- Yes, but the city center is very hilly. If you stick to the non-tourist routes, you will do a lot of walking on inclines.
- Do I need to speak German?
- Most people in hospitality speak perfect English, but learning 'Grüß Gott' (hello) and 'Danke' (thanks) goes a long way with locals.