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// Auto-generated destination data — wadi-rum
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  "chrome": {
    "hero": {
      "kicker": "HowTo:Travel · Middle East · Jordan",
      "h1Lines": [
        "Red rock and starlight.",
        "Bedouin routes through",
        "the edge of Arabia."
      ],
      "issueLabel": "Issue Nº 47 · Jordan field guide · Updated April 2026",
      "lede": "Jordan is not a quick stop between Israel and Syria. It is a country of geological violence — sandstone cliffs the colour of rust, canyons that drop without warning, a sea below sea level. The Bedouin know it best. Sleep in their camps, drive their roads, climb their rocks, and at night the Milky Way is so bright you'll squint.",
      "stats": "1 desert · 4 major canyons · 7 wadi systems · 12,000 dark sky hours yearly",
      "metaRows": [
        {
          "k": "Currency",
          "v": "Jordanian Dinar (JOD) · 1 JOD ≈ US$1.41"
        },
        {
          "k": "Plug type",
          "v": "Type G & D (UK, Swiss)"
        },
        {
          "k": "Visa for US/UK",
          "v": "On arrival (30 days) · US$40"
        },
        {
          "k": "Best for first-timers",
          "v": "Wadi Rum (2–3 days) + Petra (1 day)"
        },
        {
          "k": "Language",
          "v": "Arabic (Jordanian dialect) · English widely spoken in tourism"
        }
      ],
      "frames": [
        {
          "img": "https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1606715591413-4ec5e0055290?w=600&auto=format",
          "cap": "Wadi Rum · 29°N"
        },
        {
          "img": "https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1518156677180-95a2893f3e9f?w=600&auto=format",
          "cap": "Dead Sea cliffs · 31°N"
        },
        {
          "img": "https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1599710028544-cc4f9d3a4c69?w=600&auto=format",
          "cap": "Petra by night · 30°N"
        }
      ]
    },
    "anchor": {
      "label": "In this guide",
      "items": [
        {
          "id": "intro",
          "label": "Letter"
        },
        {
          "id": "drives",
          "label": "Drives"
        },
        {
          "id": "when",
          "label": "When to go"
        },
        {
          "id": "food",
          "label": "Eat"
        },
        {
          "id": "language",
          "label": "Speak"
        },
        {
          "id": "faq",
          "label": "Questions"
        }
      ]
    },
    "intro": {
      "lead": "Jordan is a country of geological theatre. The landscape tilts sharply toward the Dead Sea, the lowest point on Earth, where the air is so dense you float. North, the Anti-Lebanon mountains catch snow. East, the desert begins — not sand but rock, cut by wadis (canyons) that run only in winter. The Bedouin have lived here for two thousand years. They still do, running camps in Wadi Rum, guiding climbs on Jebel Rum, reading the stone like a map. Visit in winter or spring, move fast, trust the guides.",
      "side": "Amman is a city of hills and limestone facades. It sprawls, it's chaotic, but the downtown and Abdali district are genuinely alive. Don't spend more than two days there. The real Jordan is south and east — Petra, Wadi Rum, the Dead Sea. Drive it yourself if you're comfortable; hire a driver if you're not. Either way, book camps ahead.",
      "credit": "— The editors · Amman · November 2025"
    },
    "signoff": {
      "h2": "The Bedouin know best.",
      "body": "You'll sleep on a carpet in a Bedouin camp, wake at 5am to tea and fire-smoke, climb for three hours, then sit at sunset watching the rock turn purple. This is not luxury tourism. It is geology and survival and stars. Book a guide from a family camp. Pay fairly. Listen to their stories.",
      "credit": "— The editors"
    }
  },
  "drives": [
    {
      "id": "wadi-rum-loop",
      "num": "01",
      "name": "Wadi Rum",
      "nameEm": "The Bedouin loop",
      "region": "Southern Desert",
      "regionId": "desert",
      "from": "Rum village",
      "to": "Rum village",
      "km": 120,
      "hours": 8,
      "elevMax": 1650,
      "elevMin": 800,
      "season": "Oct–May (avoid Jun–Sep)",
      "surface": "Sand, rock, no asphalt. 4WD only.",
      "car": "Toyota Land Cruiser or Nissan Patrol. Hire in Aqaba (2.5h south) or arrange through camp.",
      "blurb": "The classic: Um Fruth Bridge, Burrah Canyon, the Khazali inscriptions, Abu Khashaba, sunset from Jebel Rum. Guides read the sandstone formations like chapters. Sleep in a camp, leave at dawn, the light is mercury-silver.",
      "stops": [
        "Um Fruth Rock Bridge",
        "Burrah Canyon",
        "Khazali Canyon (Thamudic inscriptions)",
        "Abu Khashaba",
        "Jebel Rum summit viewpoint",
        "Bedouin family camp"
      ],
      "tip": "Hire a guide from the family camp you're staying at, not a tour operator. You pay the family directly — they get all of it.",
      "profile": [
        800,
        950,
        1200,
        1400,
        1550,
        1650,
        1450,
        1200,
        950,
        850,
        800
      ]
    },
    {
      "id": "dead-sea-escarpment",
      "num": "02",
      "name": "Dead Sea Road",
      "nameEm": "Escarpment drive",
      "region": "Central Jordan",
      "regionId": "centre",
      "from": "Amman",
      "to": "Dead Sea (Sweimeh)",
      "km": 85,
      "hours": 2.5,
      "elevMax": 850,
      "elevMin": -430,
      "season": "Nov–Apr (avoid May–Oct heat)",
      "surface": "Highway 65 — excellent asphalt, steep grades, sharp switchbacks",
      "car": "Any rental car. Test your brakes before starting.",
      "blurb": "One of the world's steepest descents. You drop 1,280m in 50km. The Dead Sea swells below, the cliffs turn purple, and at the bottom the air is so thick you breathe water. Stop at Sweimeh, float for an hour, rinse in fresh water immediately after.",
      "stops": [
        "Amman (Abdali)",
        "Naur viewpoint (850m)",
        "Dead Sea overlook",
        "Sweimeh lido",
        "Ein Gedi mineral pools (Israeli side, day trip)"
      ],
      "tip": "Leave early to avoid tour buses. The Dead Sea mineral mud stains — wear clothes you don't mind losing.",
      "profile": [
        850,
        750,
        600,
        400,
        200,
        0,
        -200,
        -350,
        -400,
        -430,
        -430
      ]
    },
    {
      "id": "petra-approach",
      "num": "03",
      "name": "Wadi Musa approach",
      "nameEm": "Petra road",
      "region": "Southern Mountains",
      "regionId": "south",
      "from": "Wadi Rum village",
      "to": "Petra (Wadi Musa)",
      "km": 120,
      "hours": 3,
      "elevMax": 1500,
      "elevMin": 800,
      "season": "Oct–May",
      "surface": "Highway 15 — good asphalt, rolling desert plateaus",
      "car": "Standard rental car",
      "blurb": "High desert between two water systems. Bronze-coloured plateaus, Nabatean ruins scattered along the road, sudden drops into wadis. Stop in Aqaba (Jordanian side) for a coffee, then climb inland. Petra sits at 800m in a narrow valley — the approach is part of the experience.",
      "stops": [
        "Rum village",
        "Jafr plateau",
        "Aqaba viewpoint",
        "Wadi Musa entrance",
        "Petra (Khazneh, monastery, amphitheatre)"
      ],
      "tip": "Sleep in Wadi Musa, not Aqaba. You'll need an early start for Petra. Hire a guide inside the site — the backstory changes the rock.",
      "profile": [
        800,
        900,
        1100,
        1300,
        1500,
        1400,
        1200,
        1000,
        900,
        850,
        800
      ]
    },
    {
      "id": "wadi-dana-hike",
      "num": "04",
      "name": "Dana Biosphere",
      "nameEm": "Canyon descent",
      "region": "Central-South",
      "regionId": "centre",
      "from": "Dana village (north rim)",
      "to": "Feynan ecolodge (south rim)",
      "km": 15,
      "hours": 6,
      "elevMax": 1500,
      "elevMin": 300,
      "season": "Oct–Apr (spring wildflowers Mar–Apr)",
      "surface": "Foot trail, stone steps, occasional scramble",
      "car": "Not applicable. Guided hike only.",
      "blurb": "Wadi Dana drops 1,200m in one canyon. The top is Mediterranean scrub, the bottom is Saharan. You descend through five ecosystems in six hours. Feynan ecolodge sits on the canyon floor — solar-powered, no noise, the stars are catastrophically bright.",
      "stops": [
        "Dana Biosphere Reserve (north entrance)",
        "Wild cannabis fields (mid-canyon)",
        "Wadi Dana floor",
        "Feynan ecolodge",
        "Stargazing platform"
      ],
      "tip": "Book Feynan ahead. Hire a guide from Dana Biosphere office — they support the local Bedouin communities and know the plants by name.",
      "profile": [
        1500,
        1350,
        1100,
        800,
        600,
        450,
        350,
        350,
        350,
        350,
        300
      ]
    },
    {
      "id": "jebel-rum-ascent",
      "num": "05",
      "name": "Jebel Rum climb",
      "nameEm": "Rock peak",
      "region": "Southern Desert",
      "regionId": "desert",
      "from": "Wadi Rum base camp",
      "to": "Jebel Rum summit (1650m)",
      "km": 8,
      "hours": 4,
      "elevMax": 1650,
      "elevMin": 800,
      "season": "Oct–Apr (winter only)",
      "surface": "Foot trail, scramble, two brief rock sections (grade 3)",
      "car": "4WD transport to trailhead, then on foot",
      "blurb": "The highest point in Wadi Rum. Start before dawn, summit by 10am, eat with your guide's family by noon. The view is 200km of red rock, Saudi Arabian plateau, and if the light is right, the Dead Sea shimmer. Come down before the heat swells.",
      "stops": [
        "Camp departure (5:30am)",
        "Um Shomer saddle",
        "Jebel Rum summit cairn",
        "Camp lunch (midday)"
      ],
      "tip": "Bring double water. Your guide will have none. Wear shoes with grip — the sandstone is deceptively smooth and crumbles underfoot.",
      "profile": [
        800,
        1050,
        1300,
        1550,
        1650,
        1650,
        1450,
        1200,
        1000,
        900,
        800
      ]
    }
  ],
  "when": [
    {
      "m": "Jan",
      "n": "Cold and dry. Nights below freezing in the desert. Best month for climbing.",
      "s": "Mineral springs at Dead Sea are warmest in the afternoon. Petra crowds are minimal."
    },
    {
      "m": "Feb",
      "n": "Still cold. Occasional rain in the north. Wildflowers beginning in Dana.",
      "s": "Same conditions as January. Book Petra guide early."
    },
    {
      "m": "Mar",
      "n": "Warming. Spring rains in the highlands. Wadi Dana explodes in colour.",
      "s": "Ideal. Sleep in camps, hike all day. Winds are stronger."
    },
    {
      "m": "Apr",
      "n": "Warm, sunny, perfect. Tourist season begins. Petra fills with groups.",
      "s": "Peak. Book accommodations now. Wildflowers fade by late April."
    },
    {
      "m": "May",
      "n": "Heat arriving. Daytime temps 28–35°C. Nights still cool.",
      "s": "Tolerable if you start early, rest midday, drive evening. Water is critical."
    },
    {
      "m": "Jun",
      "n": "Too hot for serious activity. Temperatures 35–42°C. Desert camps close.",
      "s": "Avoid. The Dead Sea is unbearable. Only air-conditioned interiors make sense."
    },
    {
      "m": "Jul",
      "n": "Hottest month. 40–45°C. No one travels except locals.",
      "s": "Avoid entirely. Petra site closes early due to heat."
    },
    {
      "m": "Aug",
      "n": "Still 38–42°C. Slightly less intense than July but still brutal.",
      "s": "Tourist infrastructure is minimal. If you come, stay in Amman in air-con."
    },
    {
      "m": "Sep",
      "n": "Cooling. 30–35°C. Camps reopen. Autumn light appears.",
      "s": "Tolerable late in the month. Hotels reopening, prices rising."
    },
    {
      "m": "Oct",
      "n": "Excellent. 20–30°C, dry, clear skies. Peak season.",
      "s": "Peak. Book everything. Petra and Wadi Rum are crowded but the experience is worth it."
    },
    {
      "m": "Nov",
      "n": "Warm and clear. 18–28°C. Tourist season in full swing.",
      "s": "Superb. Still fewer crowds than October. Dead Sea mineral therapy is perfect."
    },
    {
      "m": "Dec",
      "n": "Cool, occasional rain in north. 15–24°C. Quiet season begins.",
      "s": "Good. Petra and Wadi Rum are manageable. Camps are full but not overrun."
    }
  ],
  "food": [
    {
      "dish": "Zarb",
      "where": "Wadi Rum (Bedouin camps)",
      "regionId": "desert",
      "note": "Lamb or goat wrapped in foil, buried in coals for hours. Dug up steaming, meat falls from bone. Eaten with bread and yoghurt.",
      "emoji": "🔥",
      "span": 2
    },
    {
      "dish": "Mansaf",
      "where": "Central and Southern Jordan (family restaurants)",
      "regionId": "centre",
      "note": "Lamb stewed in fermented yoghurt (jameed), served over rice and pitta. The sauce is sour, rich, essential. Eaten communally with hands.",
      "emoji": "🍚",
      "span": 2
    },
    {
      "dish": "Hummus with shawarma",
      "where": "Amman (any downtown café)",
      "regionId": "centre",
      "note": "Chickpea purée, tahini, lemon, warmed pita, topped with roasted chicken or lamb. Breakfast staple. Eaten standing at a marble counter.",
      "emoji": "🫘",
      "span": 1
    },
    {
      "dish": "Falafel (ta'ameya)",
      "where": "Amman, Wadi Musa",
      "regionId": "centre",
      "note": "Deep-fried fava and chickpea balls, served with tahini sauce and cucumber. Green inside, crisp crust. The Jordanian version uses more fava than most Arab countries.",
      "emoji": "🟢",
      "span": 1
    },
    {
      "dish": "Musakhan",
      "where": "Palestinian-influenced restaurants (Amman, Wadi Musa)",
      "regionId": "centre",
      "note": "Flatbread topped with sumac-spiced chicken, caramelized onions, pine nuts. Folded, torn, shared. Slightly sour, deeply savoury.",
      "emoji": "🍗",
      "span": 1
    },
    {
      "dish": "Tea (mint or sage)",
      "where": "Everywhere (Bedouin camps essential)",
      "regionId": "desert",
      "note": "Strong black tea poured into small glasses, sweetened with sugar, infused with fresh mint or desert sage. Served at dawn, after every meal, perpetually.",
      "emoji": "🫖",
      "span": 1
    },
    {
      "dish": "Knafeh",
      "where": "Amman (pastry shops, especially Nablus Road area)",
      "regionId": "centre",
      "note": "Shredded pastry, cheese, pistachios, soaked in hot sugar syrup. Served warm from a tray, eaten with a fork. Sticky, sweet, addictive.",
      "emoji": "🍯",
      "span": 1
    },
    {
      "dish": "Mensaf (stew in yoghurt) at sunset",
      "where": "Bedouin camps, Wadi Rum",
      "regionId": "desert",
      "note": "Same as mansaf but eaten around a fire at dusk, served from a shared platter, accompanied by stories and silence as the sky turns purple.",
      "emoji": "🌅",
      "span": 1
    }
  ],
  "language": [
    {
      "lc": "السلام عليكم",
      "tr": "As-salāmu alaikum",
      "note": "Peace be upon you. The formal greeting. The response is 'wa alaikum as-salam wa rahmatullahi wa barakatuhu' (and upon you be peace and mercy and blessings of God)."
    },
    {
      "lc": "كم السعر؟",
      "tr": "Kam as-si'r?",
      "note": "How much does it cost? Essential for markets, taxis, guide negotiations. Expect to bargain in souks."
    },
    {
      "lc": "شكراً كتيراً",
      "tr": "Shukran ktīr",
      "note": "Thank you very much. Ktīr (emphatic 'very') is Jordanian colloquial. Spoken gratitude opens doors."
    },
    {
      "lc": "ماء",
      "tr": "Māy",
      "note": "Water. The most important word in the desert. Say it clearly. Your guide will provide, but knowing the word matters."
    },
    {
      "lc": "المرحاض؟",
      "tr": "Al-mirhāḍ?",
      "note": "The toilet? Polite request. Bedouin camps are often distant from facilities."
    },
    {
      "lc": "في غار هنا؟",
      "tr": "Fī ghār hinnā?",
      "note": "Is there a cave here? Wadi Rum and Petra are riddled with caves. Guides love this question."
    },
    {
      "lc": "النجوم جميلة جداً",
      "tr": "An-nujūm jamīlah jiddān",
      "note": "The stars are very beautiful. Said at midnight in the desert. Your guide will nod and say 'alhamdulillah' (praise be to God)."
    },
    {
      "lc": "هذا خطر؟",
      "tr": "Hādhā khatar?",
      "note": "Is this dangerous? Useful on climbing sections. Guides will assure you. Trust them or turn back."
    }
  ],
  "faq": [
    {
      "q": "Is it safe to travel in Jordan?",
      "a": "Yes. Jordan is stable and well-developed for tourism. Amman is safe, friendly, and walkable. The southern regions (Petra, Wadi Rum, Dead Sea) are tourist infrastructure — you'll see more foreigners than locals. Border areas with Syria and Iraq exist but are nowhere near the main routes. The usual travel sense applies: avoid displaying valuables, don't travel alone late at night. That's it."
    },
    {
      "q": "How much water do I need in the desert?",
      "a": "Minimum 3–4 litres per person per day for casual driving or sightseeing. For hiking or climbing, 5–6 litres. For a full day jeep tour in Wadi Rum, 2.5–3 litres minimum (your guide will have his own). In June–August, water consumption doubles. Guides know the sources; tourists should not rely on this. Carry your own and refill whenever you see it."
    },
    {
      "q": "Should I hire a 4WD guide for Wadi Rum or go alone?",
      "a": "Hire a guide. Wadi Rum roads are not marked, water sources are hidden, and navigation requires experience. Your guide will take you to places tourists never see and tell you stories about the stone and the families who know it. Book through the camp you're staying at, not a tour operator. The money goes to the guide and his family directly. A guide costs 50–70 JOD for a full day."
    },
    {
      "q": "When is Petra most crowded and when is it empty?",
      "a": "Crowded: April, October, November, and mid-December. Busiest: 10am–2pm any day in peak season. Empty-ish: January, February, early morning (6–7am) year-round, and any day in June–August (but it's 45°C+). Go early. Hire a guide on-site (80 JOD, 2.5 hours minimum). The guide changes the experience completely."
    },
    {
      "q": "What's the difference between a Bedouin camp and a hotel in Wadi Rum?",
      "a": "Camps are Bedouin family operations: carpets on ground, mattresses, communal fires, meals cooked over coals, tea at dawn, stories at sunset. No hot showers or wifi. Hotels are concrete, electricity, private rooms, tourist menus. Camps: 30–50 JOD per person including meals. Hotels: 60–120 JOD. Sleep in a camp. You came to the desert, not a hotel."
    },
    {
      "q": "How many days do I need in Jordan?",
      "a": "Minimum 4 days: 1 in Amman, 2 in Wadi Rum, 1 in Petra. Better: 6–7 days, adding the Dead Sea, Dana Biosphere, or a second night in the desert. If you have 2 weeks, add the northern reserves, Umm Qais (views to Israel, Syria, Palestine), and time to simply sit and read in a camp."
    },
    {
      "q": "What should I pack for the desert?",
      "a": "Sunscreen (SPF 50+), hat, sunglasses, water bottle, moisture-wicking clothes, a light sweater (nights drop to 5–10°C even in spring), sturdy shoes with grip (sandstone is slippery), toiletries, and a headtorch. If you're sensitive to cold, bring two sweaters. The desert is not romantic at 4am when you're shivering. Leave valuables in a hotel safe in Amman or Wadi Musa."
    },
    {
      "q": "What's the best view of Petra?",
      "a": "The Monastery (Ad-Deir) is higher and quieter than the Treasury. Hike up early, eat your sandwich inside the courtyard at 10am, and have the place to yourself. The High Place of Sacrifice is overrated. The Siq (gorge entrance) is where Petra breathes — go slow. If you have a second day, sleep in Wadi Musa and watch Petra by night when they light the Treasury in rose gold."
    }
  ]
};
