/* ============ MIDDLE EAST — DESERT NIGHT EDITION ============ */
:root {
  --me-bg: #1a1410;
  --me-bg-2: #221a14;
  --me-bg-3: #2b2118;
  --me-ink: #f5efe0;
  --me-ink-mute: #b29b80;
  --me-ink-dim: #75614c;
  --me-gold: #d4a853;
  --me-gold-deep: #b08230;
  --me-ochre: #c4852a;
  --me-ochre-soft: rgba(212,168,83,0.16);
  --me-rose: #d4ad77;
  --me-line: rgba(245,239,224,0.10);
  --me-line-strong: rgba(245,239,224,0.22);
  --me-card: rgba(245,239,224,0.04);
  --me-card-hover: rgba(245,239,224,0.07);
}

body.middle-east-page {
  background: var(--me-bg);
  color: var(--me-ink);
  font-family: var(--sans);
}
body.middle-east-page .nav { color: var(--me-ink); }
body.middle-east-page .nav .sign-in { border-color: rgba(245,239,224,0.3); }

/* shared bits ------------------------------------- */
.middle-east-page .container { max-width: 1280px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 48px; }
.middle-east-page .kicker { color: var(--me-gold); font-family: var(--mono); text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: 0.2em; font-size: 11px; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 12px; }
.middle-east-page .kicker::before { content: ""; width: 32px; height: 1px; background: var(--me-gold); }
.middle-east-page .serif { font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: -0.01em; }
.middle-east-page em.acc { font-style: italic; color: var(--me-gold); }
.middle-east-page a { color: inherit; }

/* ---------- HERO ---------- */
.me-hero {
  position: relative; min-height: 760px; height: 96vh;
  background: var(--me-bg);
  overflow: hidden;
  color: var(--me-ink);
}
.me-hero-bg {
  position: absolute; inset: 0;
  background-image: url("https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1542401886-65d6c61db217?w=2400&auto=format");
  background-size: cover; background-position: center 50%;
  filter: saturate(0.92) brightness(0.55);
  animation: meKenburns 32s ease-in-out infinite alternate;
}
@keyframes meKenburns {
  0% { transform: scale(1.0) translate(0, 0); }
  100% { transform: scale(1.1) translate(-1.5%, -1%); }
}
.me-hero::before {
  content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: 1;
  background:
    radial-gradient(ellipse 80% 60% at 50% 100%, rgba(26,20,16,0.55) 0%, rgba(26,20,16,0.95) 100%),
    linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(26,20,16,0.4) 0%, rgba(26,20,16,0.1) 25%, rgba(26,20,16,0.85) 100%),
    radial-gradient(ellipse 90% 60% at 80% 0%, rgba(212,168,83,0.22), transparent 60%);
  pointer-events: none;
}
.me-hero::after {
  content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: 1;
  background-image: radial-gradient(rgba(245,239,224,0.04) 1px, transparent 1px);
  background-size: 18px 18px; mask-image: radial-gradient(ellipse 100% 80% at 50% 50%, #000 30%, transparent 80%);
  pointer-events: none;
}
.me-hero-collage {
  position: absolute; right: 48px; top: 50%; transform: translateY(-42%);
  display: flex; gap: 18px; z-index: 2; pointer-events: none;
}
.me-hero-collage .frame {
  width: 180px; aspect-ratio: 3/4; background-size: cover; background-position: center;
  border-radius: 2px; box-shadow: 0 24px 60px rgba(0,0,0,0.55);
  border: 1px solid rgba(245,239,224,0.12);
  position: relative;
}
.me-hero-collage .frame::after {
  content: attr(data-cap);
  position: absolute; bottom: -28px; left: 0; right: 0;
  font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 9px; letter-spacing: 0.2em; text-transform: uppercase;
  color: var(--me-ink-mute); text-align: center;
}
.me-hero-collage .frame.f1 { transform: rotate(-3deg) translateY(-30px); }
.me-hero-collage .frame.f2 { transform: rotate(2deg); width: 200px; }
.me-hero-collage .frame.f3 { transform: rotate(-2deg) translateY(20px); }
.me-hero-grid {
  position: relative; z-index: 3;
  max-width: 1280px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 180px 48px 80px;
  display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.5fr 1fr; gap: 64px; align-items: end;
}
.me-hero-trail { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 14px; font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 11px; letter-spacing: 0.2em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute); margin-bottom: 28px; }
.me-hero-trail .crumb { color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-hero-trail .sep { opacity: 0.5; }
.me-hero h1 {
  font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 400;
  font-size: clamp(72px, 10vw, 168px); line-height: 0.9; letter-spacing: -0.035em;
}
.me-hero h1 em { font-style: italic; color: var(--me-gold); display: block; }
.me-hero .lede {
  margin-top: 40px; max-width: 560px; font-size: 17px; line-height: 1.65; color: rgba(245,239,224,0.78);
}
.me-hero .lede strong { color: var(--me-ink); font-weight: 500; }
.me-hero-side { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 28px; padding-bottom: 8px; }
.me-hero-stats { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); gap: 24px 32px; padding: 32px; background: var(--me-card); border: 1px solid var(--me-line); border-radius: 4px; backdrop-filter: blur(6px); }
.me-hero-stat .n { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 44px; line-height: 1; color: var(--me-ink); }
.me-hero-stat .n em { color: var(--me-gold); font-style: italic; }
.me-hero-stat .l { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.18em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute); margin-top: 8px; }
.me-hero-meta {
  display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 10px;
  font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.2em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute);
}
.me-hero-meta .row { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; padding: 6px 0; border-bottom: 1px dashed var(--me-line); }
.me-hero-meta .row b { color: var(--me-gold); font-weight: 500; }

.me-hero-foot {
  position: relative; z-index: 3; max-width: 1280px; margin: 0 auto;
  padding: 0 48px 56px;
  display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: end; gap: 40px; flex-wrap: wrap;
}
.me-hero-quote { max-width: 380px; font-family: var(--serif); font-style: italic; font-size: 17px; line-height: 1.55; color: rgba(245,239,224,0.7); border-left: 1px solid var(--me-gold); padding-left: 20px; }
.me-hero-quote .by { display: block; margin-top: 14px; font-family: var(--mono); font-style: normal; font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.2em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-hero-search {
  display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 8px; background: rgba(245,239,224,0.06); border: 1px solid var(--me-line-strong);
  border-radius: 999px; padding: 6px 6px 6px 22px; min-width: 460px; backdrop-filter: blur(8px);
}
.me-hero-search input { flex: 1; background: none; border: none; outline: none; color: var(--me-ink); font-family: var(--sans); font-size: 14px; padding: 12px 0; }
.me-hero-search input::placeholder { color: var(--me-ink-dim); font-style: italic; }
.me-hero-search button { background: var(--me-gold); color: #1a1208; padding: 12px 26px; border-radius: 999px; font-weight: 500; font-size: 13px; }

/* anchor strip */
.me-anchor {
  background: var(--me-bg-2); border-top: 1px solid var(--me-line); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--me-line);
  padding: 20px 0;
}
.me-anchor-inner { max-width: 1280px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 48px; display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 28px; overflow-x: auto; }
.me-anchor .lbl { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.22em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-gold); flex-shrink: 0; }
.me-anchor a { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 11px; letter-spacing: 0.16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute); white-space: nowrap; flex-shrink: 0; padding: 6px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid transparent; }
.me-anchor a:hover { color: var(--me-ink); border-bottom-color: var(--me-gold); }

/* region pill strip */
.me-pills {
  background: var(--me-bg);
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--me-line);
  padding: 16px 0;
}
.me-pills-inner { max-width: 1280px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 48px; display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 14px; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.me-pills .lbl { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.22em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-dim); margin-right: 8px; }
.me-pills a {
  font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.22em; text-transform: uppercase;
  color: var(--me-ink-mute); padding: 8px 16px; border: 1px solid var(--me-line); border-radius: 999px;
  transition: all 0.2s;
}
.me-pills a:hover { color: var(--me-ink); border-color: var(--me-line-strong); }
.me-pills a.current {
  color: #1a1208; background: var(--me-gold); border-color: var(--me-gold); font-weight: 500;
}

/* section base */
.me-sec { padding: 130px 0; position: relative; }
.me-sec.tight { padding: 90px 0; }
.me-sec-head { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: flex-end; gap: 40px; flex-wrap: wrap; margin-bottom: 64px; }
.me-sec-head .ttl { max-width: 720px; }
.me-sec-head h2 { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(48px, 6vw, 84px); line-height: 0.98; letter-spacing: -0.025em; color: var(--me-ink); }
.me-sec-head h2 em { font-style: italic; color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-sec-head p { font-size: 16px; line-height: 1.6; color: var(--me-ink-mute); margin-top: 20px; max-width: 540px; }
.me-sec-head .right { display: flex; flex-direction: column; align-items: flex-end; gap: 8px; flex-shrink: 0; }
.me-sec-head .view-all { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 11px; letter-spacing: 0.2em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-gold); display: inline-flex; gap: 10px; align-items: center; }

/* ---------- INTRO LETTER ---------- */
.me-intro { background: var(--me-bg); }
.me-intro-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 240px 1fr 320px; gap: 64px; align-items: start; }
.me-intro .from .lbl { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.22em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-gold); margin-bottom: 14px; }
.me-intro .from .name { font-family: var(--serif); font-style: italic; font-size: 24px; color: var(--me-ink); }
.me-intro .from .role { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.2em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute); margin-top: 10px; }
.me-intro .from .stamp {
  margin-top: 28px; width: 130px; height: 130px; border: 1px dashed var(--me-line-strong); border-radius: 50%;
  display: flex; flex-direction: column; align-items: center; justify-content: center; text-align: center;
  font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 9px; letter-spacing: 0.18em; color: var(--me-gold); line-height: 1.5;
}
.me-intro .from .stamp em { display: block; font-family: var(--serif); font-style: italic; font-size: 22px; color: var(--me-gold); margin: 4px 0; letter-spacing: 0.04em; }
.me-intro .body p { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 22px; line-height: 1.55; color: var(--me-ink); margin-bottom: 24px; }
.me-intro .body p:first-of-type::first-letter { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 88px; float: left; line-height: 0.85; padding: 6px 14px 0 0; color: var(--me-gold); font-style: italic; }
.me-intro .body p strong { font-style: italic; color: var(--me-gold); font-weight: 400; }
.me-intro .body .sig { margin-top: 20px; font-family: var(--serif); font-style: italic; font-size: 22px; color: var(--me-ink-mute); }
.me-intro .toc { background: var(--me-card); border: 1px solid var(--me-line); border-radius: 4px; padding: 28px; }
.me-intro .toc .lbl { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.22em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-gold); margin-bottom: 18px; }
.me-intro .toc ol { list-style: none; counter-reset: toc; }
.me-intro .toc li {
  counter-increment: toc; display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: baseline; gap: 12px;
  padding: 10px 0; border-bottom: 1px dashed var(--me-line);
}
.me-intro .toc li::before { content: counter(toc, decimal-leading-zero); font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.16em; color: var(--me-gold); flex-shrink: 0; min-width: 24px; }
.me-intro .toc li a { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 17px; color: var(--me-ink); flex: 1; }
.me-intro .toc li .pg { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.16em; color: var(--me-ink-dim); }

/* ---------- COUNTRY GRID ---------- */
.me-countries { background: var(--me-bg-2); }
.me-countries-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); gap: 1px; background: var(--me-line); border: 1px solid var(--me-line); }
.me-country {
  background: var(--me-bg-2); padding: 0; min-height: 340px;
  display: flex; flex-direction: column; position: relative; cursor: pointer;
  transition: background 0.3s; overflow: hidden;
}
.me-country:hover { background: var(--me-bg-3); }
.me-country:hover .country-img { transform: scale(1.04); }
.country-img {
  position: relative; height: 160px; background-size: cover; background-position: center;
  transition: transform 0.6s ease;
}
.country-img::after {
  content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0;
  background: linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(26,20,16,0.2) 0%, rgba(26,20,16,0.65) 100%);
}
.me-country .body { padding: 22px 24px 24px; flex: 1; display: flex; flex-direction: column; justify-content: space-between; position: relative; }
.me-country .top { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: start; position: absolute; top: 16px; left: 16px; right: 16px; z-index: 2; }
.me-country .flag {
  width: 36px; height: 28px; border-radius: 2px; overflow: hidden; position: relative;
  box-shadow: 0 2px 6px rgba(0,0,0,0.4);
}
.me-country .num { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.2em; color: #fff; opacity: 0.85; }
.me-country .name { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 28px; line-height: 1.05; color: var(--me-ink); margin: 0 0 6px; }
.me-country .cap { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.18em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute); }
.me-country .stats { display: flex; gap: 16px; margin-top: 16px; padding-top: 16px; border-top: 1px dashed var(--me-line); font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute); }
.me-country .stats b { color: var(--me-gold); font-weight: 500; }
.me-country .arrow { position: absolute; bottom: 24px; right: 24px; opacity: 0; transition: opacity 0.3s, transform 0.3s; transform: translateX(-6px); color: var(--me-gold); font-family: var(--serif); font-style: italic; }
.me-country:hover .arrow { opacity: 1; transform: translateX(0); }
.me-country.featured { grid-column: span 2; grid-row: span 2; min-height: auto; padding: 0; background: var(--me-bg-2); }
.me-country.featured .country-img { height: 320px; }
.me-country.featured .body { padding: 36px 40px 40px; }
.me-country.featured .name { font-size: 64px; margin: 0 0 12px; }
.me-country.featured .lede { font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.6; color: var(--me-ink-mute); margin-top: 18px; max-width: 480px; }

/* ---------- REGION CLUSTERS ---------- */
.me-clusters { background: var(--me-bg); }
.me-cluster-row {
  display: grid; grid-template-columns: 200px 1fr 1fr 1fr; gap: 32px;
  padding: 48px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--me-line); align-items: start;
}
.me-cluster-row:first-of-type { border-top: 1px solid var(--me-line); }
.me-cluster-row .lead h3 { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 36px; line-height: 1; color: var(--me-ink); }
.me-cluster-row .lead h3 em { font-style: italic; color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-cluster-row .lead .num { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.22em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-gold); margin-bottom: 14px; }
.me-cluster-row .lead p { margin-top: 14px; font-size: 13px; line-height: 1.6; color: var(--me-ink-mute); }
.me-cluster-card {
  background: var(--me-card); border: 1px solid var(--me-line); border-radius: 3px;
  padding: 22px; transition: all 0.3s;
}
.me-cluster-card:hover { background: var(--me-card-hover); border-color: var(--me-line-strong); }
.me-cluster-card .top { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: start; margin-bottom: 14px; }
.me-cluster-card .when { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-cluster-card .pin { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.14em; color: var(--me-ink-mute); }
.me-cluster-card h4 { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 22px; line-height: 1.15; color: var(--me-ink); margin-bottom: 8px; }
.me-cluster-card h4 em { font-style: italic; color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-cluster-card p { font-size: 13px; line-height: 1.55; color: var(--me-ink-mute); }
.me-cluster-card .tags { display: flex; gap: 6px; flex-wrap: wrap; margin-top: 14px; }
.me-cluster-card .tag { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 9px; letter-spacing: 0.16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute); border: 1px solid var(--me-line-strong); padding: 4px 10px; border-radius: 999px; }

/* ---------- WHEN TO GO ---------- */
.me-when { background: var(--me-bg-2); }
.me-when-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 64px; align-items: start; }
.me-when-cal { background: var(--me-bg); border: 1px solid var(--me-line); border-radius: 4px; padding: 32px; }
.me-when-cal table { width: 100%; border-collapse: collapse; font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 11px; }
.me-when-cal th { text-align: left; font-weight: 400; color: var(--me-gold); letter-spacing: 0.16em; text-transform: uppercase; padding: 10px 4px; font-size: 10px; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--me-line); }
.me-when-cal td { padding: 8px 4px; border-bottom: 1px dashed var(--me-line); color: var(--me-ink); letter-spacing: 0.08em; }
.me-when-cal td.region { color: var(--me-ink); }
.me-when-cal .pill { display: inline-block; padding: 3px 8px; border-radius: 2px; font-size: 9px; letter-spacing: 0.12em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.me-when-cal .pill.peak { background: rgba(212,168,83,0.7); color: #1a1208; }
.me-when-cal .pill.shoulder { background: rgba(212,168,83,0.25); color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-when-cal .pill.low { background: rgba(245,239,224,0.06); color: var(--me-ink-mute); }
.me-when-cal .pill.fest { background: rgba(212,173,119,0.4); color: #1a1208; }
.me-when-cal-legend { display: flex; gap: 18px; margin-top: 18px; font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 9px; letter-spacing: 0.14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute); flex-wrap: wrap; }
.me-when-cal-legend span { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 6px; }
.me-when-cal-legend i { width: 16px; height: 8px; border-radius: 2px; display: inline-block; font-style: normal; }

.me-when-notes { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 24px; }
.me-when-note { padding: 24px 28px; background: var(--me-card); border: 1px solid var(--me-line); border-radius: 3px; border-left: 2px solid var(--me-gold); }
.me-when-note h4 { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 22px; color: var(--me-ink); margin-bottom: 8px; }
.me-when-note h4 em { font-style: italic; color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-when-note p { font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.6; color: var(--me-ink-mute); }
.me-when-note .meta { margin-top: 12px; display: flex; gap: 18px; font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-gold); }

/* ---------- ITINERARIES ---------- */
.me-iti { background: var(--me-bg); }
.me-iti-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); gap: 24px; }
.me-iti-card {
  background: linear-gradient(160deg, var(--me-bg-3), var(--me-bg-2));
  border: 1px solid var(--me-line); border-radius: 4px;
  padding: 36px; min-height: 520px;
  display: flex; flex-direction: column; transition: transform 0.3s, border-color 0.3s;
}
.me-iti-card:hover { transform: translateY(-3px); border-color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-iti-card .head { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: baseline; }
.me-iti-card .days { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 64px; color: var(--me-gold); line-height: 0.9; font-style: italic; }
.me-iti-card .days span { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 11px; letter-spacing: 0.18em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute); display: block; font-style: normal; margin-top: 8px; }
.me-iti-card .pill { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 9px; letter-spacing: 0.18em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink); padding: 6px 12px; border: 1px solid var(--me-line-strong); border-radius: 999px; }
.me-iti-card h3 { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 32px; color: var(--me-ink); margin: 32px 0 12px; line-height: 1.05; }
.me-iti-card h3 em { font-style: italic; color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-iti-card .lede { font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.6; color: var(--me-ink-mute); margin-bottom: 24px; }
.me-iti-card .stops { list-style: none; margin-top: auto; }
.me-iti-card .stops li {
  display: grid; grid-template-columns: 36px 1fr auto; gap: 12px; align-items: baseline;
  padding: 10px 0; border-top: 1px dashed var(--me-line);
  font-size: 14px;
}
.me-iti-card .stops li .n { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.16em; color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-iti-card .stops li .place { font-family: var(--serif); color: var(--me-ink); }
.me-iti-card .stops li .nights { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.14em; color: var(--me-ink-dim); }
.me-iti-card .foot { margin-top: 20px; display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: center; padding-top: 18px; border-top: 1px solid var(--me-line); font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.18em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute); }
.me-iti-card .foot .cost { color: var(--me-gold); }

/* ---------- FOOD & DRINK ---------- */
.me-food { background: var(--me-bg-2); }
.me-food-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(6, 1fr); gap: 16px; }
.me-food-card {
  position: relative; padding: 24px; min-height: 220px;
  border: 1px solid var(--me-line); border-radius: 3px; background: var(--me-card);
  display: flex; flex-direction: column; justify-content: space-between;
}
.me-food-card.span-2 { grid-column: span 2; }
.me-food-card.span-3 { grid-column: span 3; min-height: 300px; }
.me-food-card.span-4 { grid-column: span 4; }
.me-food-card .top { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: start; }
.me-food-card .glyph { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 40px; color: var(--me-gold); line-height: 1; font-style: italic; opacity: 0.6; }
.me-food-card .country { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.2em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-food-card h4 { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 26px; color: var(--me-ink); line-height: 1.1; }
.me-food-card h4 em { font-style: italic; color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-food-card p { font-size: 13px; line-height: 1.55; color: var(--me-ink-mute); margin-top: 8px; }
.me-food-card.span-3 h4 { font-size: 36px; }
.me-food-card .pair { margin-top: 14px; padding-top: 14px; border-top: 1px dashed var(--me-line); font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute); }
.me-food-card .pair b { color: var(--me-gold); font-weight: 500; }

/* ---------- TRANSPORT ---------- */
.me-trains { background: var(--me-bg); position: relative; overflow: hidden; }
.me-trains-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1.4fr; gap: 64px; align-items: start; }
.me-trains .blurb p { font-size: 16px; line-height: 1.7; color: var(--me-ink-mute); margin-bottom: 18px; }
.me-trains .blurb p strong { color: var(--me-ink); font-weight: 500; }
.me-trains .compare {
  background: var(--me-card); border: 1px solid var(--me-line); border-radius: 3px;
  padding: 28px; margin-top: 28px;
}
.me-trains .compare h5 { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.22em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-gold); margin-bottom: 16px; }
.me-trains .compare-row { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 80px 80px; gap: 16px; padding: 12px 0; border-bottom: 1px dashed var(--me-line); align-items: center; font-size: 14px; }
.me-trains .compare-row.h { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute); }
.me-trains .compare-row .train { color: var(--me-gold); font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 11px; }
.me-trains .compare-row .plane { color: var(--me-ink-mute); font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 11px; }

.me-routes { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 14px; }
.me-route {
  display: grid; grid-template-columns: 90px 1fr 90px; gap: 20px; align-items: center;
  background: var(--me-card); border: 1px solid var(--me-line); border-radius: 3px;
  padding: 18px 24px; transition: all 0.3s;
}
.me-route:hover { border-color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-route .from, .me-route .to { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 22px; color: var(--me-ink); line-height: 1; }
.me-route .from .city, .me-route .to .city { font-style: italic; color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-route .from .code, .me-route .to .code { display: block; font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 9px; letter-spacing: 0.18em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute); margin-top: 6px; font-style: normal; }
.me-route .to { text-align: right; }
.me-route .line { position: relative; height: 24px; display: flex; flex-direction: column; align-items: center; justify-content: center; gap: 6px; }
.me-route .line .lbl { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 9px; letter-spacing: 0.16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute); }
.me-route .line .lbl b { color: var(--me-gold); font-weight: 500; }
.me-route .line::before { content: ""; position: absolute; left: 8px; right: 8px; top: 6px; height: 1px; background: linear-gradient(90deg, var(--me-gold), transparent, var(--me-gold)); }

/* ---------- BUDGET ---------- */
.me-budget { background: var(--me-bg-2); position: relative; overflow: hidden; }
.me-budget::before {
  content: "ARABIA"; position: absolute; top: 50%; left: 50%; transform: translate(-50%, -50%);
  font-family: var(--serif); font-style: italic; font-size: 32vw; color: rgba(212,168,83,0.05);
  letter-spacing: -0.04em; line-height: 1; pointer-events: none; white-space: nowrap; z-index: 0;
}
.me-budget > .container { position: relative; z-index: 1; }
.me-budget-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); gap: 24px; }
.me-budget-card { background: rgba(34, 26, 20, 0.78); backdrop-filter: blur(6px); -webkit-backdrop-filter: blur(6px); border: 1px solid var(--me-line); border-radius: 4px; padding: 36px; }
.me-budget-card.middle { background: linear-gradient(160deg, rgba(212,168,83,0.12), rgba(212,168,83,0.04)); border-color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-budget-card .h { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: baseline; margin-bottom: 24px; }
.me-budget-card .lvl { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.22em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-budget-card .day { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 56px; color: var(--me-ink); line-height: 0.9; }
.me-budget-card .day em { color: var(--me-gold); font-style: italic; }
.me-budget-card .day .u { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 11px; color: var(--me-ink-mute); letter-spacing: 0.16em; text-transform: uppercase; margin-left: 4px; vertical-align: top; }
.me-budget-card h4 { font-family: var(--serif); font-style: italic; font-size: 24px; color: var(--me-ink); margin-bottom: 14px; }
.me-budget-card .lines { list-style: none; }
.me-budget-card .lines li { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; padding: 12px 0; border-bottom: 1px dashed var(--me-line); font-size: 14px; color: var(--me-ink); }
.me-budget-card .lines li span:last-child { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 11px; color: var(--me-gold); letter-spacing: 0.1em; }
.me-budget-card .note { margin-top: 18px; font-size: 13px; line-height: 1.55; color: var(--me-ink-mute); font-style: italic; }

/* ---------- LANGUAGE ---------- */
.me-lang { background: var(--me-bg); }
.me-lang-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); gap: 1px; background: var(--me-line); border: 1px solid var(--me-line); }
.me-lang-card { background: var(--me-bg); padding: 28px; min-height: 220px; }
.me-lang-card .country { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.22em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-gold); margin-bottom: 18px; }
.me-lang-card dl dt { font-family: var(--serif); font-style: italic; font-size: 18px; color: var(--me-ink); margin-bottom: 2px; }
.me-lang-card dl dd { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute); margin-bottom: 14px; }

/* ---------- FESTIVALS ---------- */
.me-fest { background: var(--me-bg-2); }
.me-fest-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); gap: 24px; }
.me-fest-card {
  position: relative; padding: 36px 28px; min-height: 280px;
  border: 1px solid var(--me-line); border-radius: 3px;
  background: linear-gradient(180deg, var(--me-bg-3), var(--me-bg-2));
  display: flex; flex-direction: column; justify-content: space-between;
}
.me-fest-card .when { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.22em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-fest-card .where { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute); margin-top: 4px; }
.me-fest-card h4 { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 30px; line-height: 1.1; color: var(--me-ink); margin-top: 30px; }
.me-fest-card h4 em { font-style: italic; color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-fest-card p { font-size: 13px; line-height: 1.55; color: var(--me-ink-mute); margin-top: 12px; }
.me-fest-card .stars { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.16em; color: var(--me-gold); margin-top: 14px; }
.me-fest-card .num { position: absolute; top: 24px; right: 28px; font-family: var(--serif); font-style: italic; font-size: 56px; color: var(--me-gold); opacity: 0.25; line-height: 0.8; }

/* ---------- NEIGHBORHOODS ---------- */
.me-nbhd { background: var(--me-bg); }
.me-nbhd-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); gap: 1px; background: var(--me-line); border: 1px solid var(--me-line); }
.me-nbhd-row { background: var(--me-bg); padding: 36px; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 80px 1fr; gap: 24px; align-items: start; }
.me-nbhd-row .num { font-family: var(--serif); font-style: italic; font-size: 56px; color: var(--me-gold); line-height: 0.9; }
.me-nbhd-row .name { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 28px; color: var(--me-ink); line-height: 1.05; }
.me-nbhd-row .name em { font-style: italic; color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-nbhd-row .city { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.18em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute); margin: 6px 0 14px; }
.me-nbhd-row p { font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.65; color: var(--me-ink-mute); }
.me-nbhd-row .why { margin-top: 14px; padding-top: 14px; border-top: 1px dashed var(--me-line); font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-gold); }

/* ---------- PACKING ---------- */
.me-pack { background: var(--me-bg-2); }
.me-pack-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr; gap: 32px; }
.me-pack-list { background: var(--me-card); border: 1px solid var(--me-line); border-radius: 4px; padding: 32px; }
.me-pack-list h4 { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 24px; color: var(--me-ink); margin-bottom: 4px; }
.me-pack-list h4 em { font-style: italic; color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-pack-list .sub { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.18em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute); margin-bottom: 24px; }
.me-pack-list ul { list-style: none; }
.me-pack-list li {
  display: grid; grid-template-columns: 28px 1fr; gap: 8px; padding: 10px 0;
  border-bottom: 1px dashed var(--me-line); font-size: 14px; color: var(--me-ink); align-items: center;
}
.me-pack-list li::before {
  content: ""; width: 14px; height: 14px; border: 1px solid var(--me-line-strong); border-radius: 2px;
}
.me-pack-list li.tip { color: var(--me-gold); font-style: italic; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 15px; border-bottom: none; padding-top: 14px; }
.me-pack-list li.tip::before { content: "✻"; border: none; color: var(--me-gold); width: auto; height: auto; font-size: 14px; }

/* ---------- FAQ ---------- */
.me-faq { background: var(--me-bg); }
.me-faq-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 320px 1fr; gap: 64px; align-items: start; }
.me-faq .aside p { font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.65; color: var(--me-ink-mute); margin-bottom: 14px; }
.me-faq-item { padding: 26px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--me-line); }
.me-faq-item summary {
  cursor: pointer; list-style: none;
  display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: center; gap: 24px;
  font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 22px; color: var(--me-ink); line-height: 1.3;
}
.me-faq-item summary::-webkit-details-marker { display: none; }
.me-faq-item summary::after { content: "＋"; color: var(--me-gold); font-size: 22px; flex-shrink: 0; transition: transform 0.3s; }
.me-faq-item[open] summary::after { content: "—"; }
.me-faq-item .a { padding-top: 16px; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.7; color: var(--me-ink-mute); max-width: 720px; }
.me-faq-item .a strong { color: var(--me-ink); font-weight: 500; }

/* ---------- RELATED ---------- */
.me-related { background: var(--me-bg-2); }
.me-related-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); gap: 24px; }
.me-related-card {
  background: var(--me-card); border: 1px solid var(--me-line); border-radius: 3px;
  padding: 28px; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 14px; min-height: 220px;
}
.me-related-card .lbl { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.18em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-related-card h4 { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 22px; color: var(--me-ink); line-height: 1.2; }
.me-related-card h4 em { font-style: italic; color: var(--me-gold); }
.me-related-card .by { margin-top: auto; font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 0.14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute); }

/* ---------- SIGN-OFF (closing marquee with watermark) ---------- */
.me-signoff {
  background: linear-gradient(180deg, var(--me-bg) 0%, var(--me-bg-2) 100%);
  padding: 120px 0 100px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--me-line);
}
.me-signoff::before {
  content: "MASHRIQ"; position: absolute; top: 50%; left: 50%; transform: translate(-50%, -50%);
  font-family: var(--serif); font-style: italic; font-size: 28vw; color: rgba(212,168,83,0.05);
  letter-spacing: -0.04em; line-height: 1; pointer-events: none; white-space: nowrap;
}
.me-signoff-inner { position: relative; z-index: 2; }
.me-signoff-inner > .kicker {
  display: block; text-align: center;
  color: var(--me-gold); font-family: var(--mono);
  text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: 0.28em; font-size: 11px;
  margin-bottom: 56px;
}
.me-signoff-meta {
  margin-top: 56px; text-align: center;
  font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 11px; letter-spacing: 0.22em;
  text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--me-ink-mute);
  display: flex; justify-content: center; gap: 18px; align-items: center; flex-wrap: wrap;
}
.me-signoff-meta .dash { color: var(--me-gold); }

/* ---------- DARK FOOTER OVERRIDES ---------- */
body.middle-east-page .footer { background: #110b07; }

/* responsive */
@media (max-width: 1080px) {
  .me-hero-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 40px; padding-top: 140px; }
  .me-hero-collage { display: none; }
  .me-intro-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 40px; }
  .me-countries-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); }
  .me-country.featured { grid-column: span 2; grid-row: auto; }
  .me-cluster-row { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .me-when-grid, .me-trains-grid, .me-faq-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .me-iti-grid, .me-budget-grid, .me-fest-grid, .me-pack-grid, .me-related-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .me-food-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); }
  .me-food-card.span-2, .me-food-card.span-3, .me-food-card.span-4 { grid-column: span 2; }
  .me-lang-grid, .me-nbhd-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
}