/* eslint-disable */
// Auto-generated destination data — tokyo
window.TOKYO_DATA = {
  "chrome": {
    "hero": {
      "kicker": "HowTo:Travel · Asia · Japan",
      "h1Lines": [
        "Tokyo is not one city.",
        "It's a collection of villages",
        "stacked on top of each other."
      ],
      "issueLabel": "Issue Nº 47 · Tokyo city guide · Updated April 2026",
      "lede": "Tokyo sprawls across 23 wards and a dozen mental maps. Shibuya is not Yanaka. Tsukishima is not Shimokitazawa. The train is your compass; the 7-Eleven is your anchor. Arrive with a JR Pass and low expectations for sleep. You'll find ramen at 2am, a three-course tempura at noon, and the kind of organized chaos that only makes sense once you stop trying to understand it.",
      "stats": "47 field guides · 12 neighborhoods · 6 cities · 3 great trains · 300 yen standing ramen",
      "metaRows": [
        {
          "k": "Currency",
          "v": "Japanese yen (¥) · 1 USD ≈ ¥150"
        },
        {
          "k": "Plug type",
          "v": "Type A (100V · 50/60Hz) · adaptor necessary"
        },
        {
          "k": "Visa for US/UK",
          "v": "90 days visa-free on tourist entry"
        },
        {
          "k": "Best for first-timers",
          "v": "May–Jun, Sep–Oct · avoid Golden Week (Apr 29–May 5)"
        },
        {
          "k": "Language",
          "v": "Japanese · English sparse outside central wards"
        }
      ],
      "frames": [
        {
          "img": "https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1540959375944-7049f642e9d4?w=600&auto=format",
          "cap": "Shibuya Crossing at dusk · 35°N"
        },
        {
          "img": "https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1552565612-6c747b7a2c0f?w=600&auto=format",
          "cap": "Yanaka temples · morning light"
        },
        {
          "img": "https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1523359331379-e56169768e15?w=600&auto=format",
          "cap": "Tsukishima izakaya alley · golden hour"
        }
      ]
    },
    "anchor": {
      "label": "In this guide",
      "items": [
        {
          "id": "intro",
          "label": "Letter"
        },
        {
          "id": "neighborhoods",
          "label": "Neighborhoods"
        },
        {
          "id": "cities",
          "label": "Cities & Day Trips"
        },
        {
          "id": "trains",
          "label": "Train Guide"
        },
        {
          "id": "when",
          "label": "When to Go"
        },
        {
          "id": "food",
          "label": "Food"
        },
        {
          "id": "festivals",
          "label": "Festivals"
        },
        {
          "id": "language",
          "label": "Phrases"
        },
        {
          "id": "faq",
          "label": "FAQ"
        }
      ]
    },
    "intro": {
      "lead": "Tokyo operates on a logic that isn't Western. The trains run in fifteen directions. The neighborhoods are villages that forgot they're part of a city. Salary men in three-piece suits stand next to schoolgirls in sailor uniforms. A bowl of ramen costs ¥800. A ryokan room for two is ¥30,000. The rule is: there is no rule except politeness, punctuality, and the understanding that you will get lost and that getting lost is the point. Sleep in Shimokitazawa. Eat in Tsukishima. Work your way east toward Yanaka and pretend Tokyo is still an old city.",
      "side": "The editors lived across five wards over three years. Took the Chuo Line at 7:15am. Learned that 'sumimasen' solves most problems. Discovered that the convenience store is not a place to shop—it's a place to live. The real Tokyo moves at eye level, not on guidebooks.",
      "credit": "— The editors · Tokyo · March 2026"
    },
    "signoff": {
      "h2": "Stay longer than you think you will.",
      "body": "Tokyo doesn't reveal itself in a week. By day four, the chaos becomes rhythm. By day seven, you'll see a neighborhood three blocks from Shibuya Station and realize you've found your corner. Don't photograph the Senso-ji temple—go at 6am when no one is there and you can hear the priest chanting.",
      "credit": "— The editors"
    }
  },
  "neighborhoods": [
    {
      "num": "01",
      "name": "Shibuya",
      "nameEm": "the intersection",
      "city": "Tokyo",
      "regionId": "tokyo",
      "text": "The crossing you've seen in films. But Shibuya is not the crossing—it's the grid of concrete alleys behind it, packed with standing ramen bars, 100-yen shops, and live music clubs that open at 8pm. The crossing is the tourist moment. Stay for Center Gai and the small bars where salarymen drink whisky at noon.",
      "why": "First visit: see the crossing, then escape to the side streets and ask yourself why you spent five minutes watching crowds."
    },
    {
      "num": "02",
      "name": "Shimokitazawa",
      "nameEm": "the village",
      "city": "Tokyo",
      "regionId": "tokyo",
      "text": "Narrow wooden buildings, vintage record shops, tiny theaters with 40-seat capacity. This is where Tokyo was before the towers. Oden broth in winter. Yakitori on the corner. The Odakyu and Keio lines meet here and everyone pretends they don't live in a metropolis. Rents are doubling; the old bars are closing. Go now.",
      "why": "The last neighborhood where you can feel the city's former self and still get a beer for ¥600."
    },
    {
      "num": "03",
      "name": "Yanaka",
      "nameEm": "the memory",
      "city": "Tokyo",
      "regionId": "tokyo",
      "text": "Temples, low-rise wooden houses, and a cemetery where cats sleep in the shade. The Chiyoda Line runs below; above, the streets slope toward Uguisudani. No neon, no chains (almost). The bakeries open at 7am. The ryokan still use wood-fired baths. Walk uphill and downhill at random—every corner is a tea shop or a shrine.",
      "why": "See old Tokyo in the morning and understand that you can't actually restore it, only walk through it carefully."
    },
    {
      "num": "04",
      "name": "Tsukishima",
      "nameEm": "the island",
      "city": "Tokyo",
      "regionId": "tokyo",
      "text": "A grid of low buildings and izakayas squeezed between the Sumida River and the Oedo Line. Monjayaki (runny okonomiyaki) invented here; the shops line Shotengai alley and serve it fresh in iron pans. Locals outnumber tourists 50:1. Close your eyes, pick a door, and eat what they put in front of you.",
      "why": "Genuine neighborhood eating without pretense—the monjayaki is not 'fusion,' it's just what people here have eaten for 70 years."
    },
    {
      "num": "05",
      "name": "Ginza",
      "nameEm": "the grid",
      "city": "Tokyo",
      "regionId": "tokyo",
      "text": "Eight-lane streets, flagship stores, and the department stores that define Tokyo luxury. But the real Ginza is the corridor of tiny bars hidden above the storefronts—sushi counters with five seats, whisky bars run by men who've poured the same Yamazaki for 30 years. Lunch at Ginza Ichiran (tonkotsu ramen, ¥980). Aperitivo upstairs at one of the nameless speakeasies.",
      "why": "The tourist thoroughfare by day, the old city by night—all within one elevated block."
    },
    {
      "num": "06",
      "name": "Harajuku &",
      "nameEm": "Omotesando",
      "city": "Tokyo",
      "regionId": "tokyo",
      "text": "Harajuku is the youth fashion maze; Omotesando is the luxury avenue that runs parallel, lined with Minimalist architecture and ¥100,000 handbags. Meiji Shrine anchors both. Walk the shrine in the morning (free, peaceful, 7am). Skip the fashion alleys unless you are 17 or documenting subculture.",
      "why": "See the shrine. Use Omotesando as a quiet cut through instead of fighting Takeshita Street."
    }
  ],
  "cities": [
    {
      "name": "Tokyo",
      "pop": 13.96,
      "region": "Kanto",
      "regionId": "tokyo",
      "img": "https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1540959375944-7049f642e9d4?w=900&auto=format",
      "days": "7–10",
      "mood": "Controlled chaos, neon, efficient",
      "best": "May–Jun · Sep–Oct",
      "quote": "Don't look at maps. Learn five train lines. Get lost on purpose."
    },
    {
      "name": "Kyoto",
      "pop": 1.46,
      "region": "Kansai",
      "regionId": "kyoto",
      "img": "https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1493246507139-91e8fad9978e?w=900&auto=format",
      "days": "3",
      "mood": "Temples, geisha, bamboo",
      "best": "Apr · Nov",
      "quote": "Rent a bicycle. Fushimi Inari at dawn. Sleep in Gion, eat on Pontocho."
    },
    {
      "name": "Osaka",
      "pop": 2.73,
      "region": "Kansai",
      "regionId": "osaka",
      "img": "https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1522383150241-36602e88ee51?w=900&auto=format",
      "days": "2",
      "mood": "Loud, edible, unpretentious",
      "best": "Oct–Nov",
      "quote": "Dotonbori at night. Takoyaki from the street. Sake bar at 4pm."
    },
    {
      "name": "Hiroshima",
      "pop": 1.2,
      "region": "Chugoku",
      "regionId": "hiro",
      "img": "https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1544090122-e4e19b4e9e6f?w=900&auto=format",
      "days": "2",
      "mood": "Memorial, grief, resolve",
      "best": "Apr–May · Oct–Nov",
      "quote": "Go to the Peace Memorial early. Then eat okonomiyaki slowly in Nagarekawa."
    },
    {
      "name": "Takayama",
      "pop": 0.09,
      "region": "Chubu",
      "regionId": "taka",
      "img": "https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1584499571901-30a1709d66ce?w=900&auto=format",
      "days": "2",
      "mood": "Mountain town, sake, old sake",
      "best": "Oct–Nov",
      "quote": "Stay overnight. Walk the morning market. Sake brewery tour at 10am."
    }
  ],
  "trains": [
    {
      "route": "Tokyo (Shinjuku) → Kyoto",
      "time": "2h 15",
      "op": "Tokaido Shinkansen (JR Central)",
      "note": "Reserve seat in advance. The most important train in Japan. Departs every 10 minutes."
    },
    {
      "route": "Tokyo → Osaka (Shin-Osaka)",
      "time": "2h 45",
      "op": "Tokaido Shinkansen",
      "note": "Nonstop express. Reserve seat. Mount Fuji visible on right side in clear weather (Seats D–E)."
    },
    {
      "route": "Osaka → Kyoto",
      "time": "30 min",
      "op": "Hankyu Railway (Kawaramachi Line)",
      "note": "Private railway, faster and cheaper than JR. Departs every 10–15 minutes from downtown Osaka."
    },
    {
      "route": "Kyoto → Hiroshima",
      "time": "4h 15",
      "op": "Tokaido + Sanyo Shinkansen (via Shin-Osaka)",
      "note": "Change trains in Shin-Osaka. Seat backward side for views. Lunch box at departure."
    },
    {
      "route": "Tokyo (Takayama Line) → Takayama",
      "time": "4h 40",
      "op": "Limited Express Hida (JR Central)",
      "note": "Narrow gauge through mountains. Reserve seat. Window views of Japanese Alps in fall are exceptional."
    },
    {
      "route": "Kyoto (Keifuku Line) → Arashiyama",
      "time": "15 min",
      "op": "Keifuku Electric Railway (local)",
      "note": "Old wooden streetcar. ¥220 flat fare. The slowest way to Bamboo Grove is the best way."
    }
  ],
  "when": [
    {
      "m": "Jan",
      "n": "Tokyo: clear, cold (3°C nights), New Year shrine crowds Jan 1–7. Stay west of Shibuya.",
      "s": "Kyoto: temple visits, no rain, tourists thin after Jan 10. Takayama snow."
    },
    {
      "m": "Feb",
      "n": "Tokyo: still cold, fewer tourists, cherry blossoms approach (late Feb in some parks). Umeblossom (plum) festivals.",
      "s": "Kyoto: same quiet. Plum blossoms at Kitano Tenman-gu. Early bookings for April open now."
    },
    {
      "m": "Mar",
      "n": "Tokyo: warming (8°C–15°C), early cherry blossoms late month. Hina festival dolls displayed in homes.",
      "s": "Kyoto: temperatures rise. Plum festivals continue. Crowds begin March 20 onward."
    },
    {
      "m": "Apr",
      "n": "Tokyo: peak cherry blossom (late Mar–early Apr). Golden Week Apr 29–May 5 is crowded nightmare. Book trains early.",
      "s": "Kyoto: same blossoms, double the people. Skip if possible. Gion district floods with tourists."
    },
    {
      "m": "May",
      "n": "Tokyo: warm (15°C–22°C), post–Golden Week calm, azaleas bloom. Ideal month. Summer camp season ends; school year restarts.",
      "s": "Kyoto: still crowded but heating up. Better at sea level (Osaka, Hiroshima). Rainy season approaches late May."
    },
    {
      "m": "Jun",
      "n": "Tokyo: rainy season (tsuyu), humid (20°C–25°C), cheap hotels, no tourists. Hydrangea festivals. Prepare for daily rain.",
      "s": "Kyoto: same rain. Fewer people. Gion temple gardens lush but wet. Osaka museums best bet."
    },
    {
      "m": "Jul",
      "n": "Tokyo: hot (25°C–30°C), humid, summer festivals (Sumida River fireworks mid-July). Families on vacation second half July.",
      "s": "Kyoto: unbearable heat without AC. Stay at temples with evening cooling (Nanzen-ji area). Gion Matsuri mid-July."
    },
    {
      "m": "Aug",
      "n": "Tokyo: peak summer (28°C–32°C), Obon holidays Aug 10–20 (roads & trains packed), summer festivals continue. Expect crowds.",
      "s": "Kyoto: same heat. Obon pilgrimage crowds. Avoid unless specific festival. Mountains (Takayama) cooler by 5°C."
    },
    {
      "m": "Sep",
      "n": "Tokyo: typhoon season, cooling (20°C–26°C), end-of-summer festivals, school reopens Sep 1. Humidity lingers early month.",
      "s": "Kyoto: typhoons pass mid-month. Cool enough for walking by week 3. Fewer tourists."
    },
    {
      "m": "Oct",
      "n": "Tokyo: ideal (13°C–21°C), clear, autumn foliage late month, Health & Sports Day holiday (2nd Mon). Peak tourist season begins.",
      "s": "Kyoto: same clear skies. Maple leaves mid-late month. Prices rise. Book hotels now."
    },
    {
      "m": "Nov",
      "n": "Tokyo: crisp (8°C–17°C), peak foliage mid-month, Culture Day (Nov 3), temple gardens peak color. Peak season, book ahead.",
      "s": "Kyoto: peak foliage + peak crowds. Temples booked. Takayama and Hiroshima better value, same views."
    },
    {
      "m": "Dec",
      "n": "Tokyo: cold (3°C–10°C), holiday illuminations mid-Dec onward, New Year preparations, year-end sales (Fukubags 12/26). Quiet.",
      "s": "Kyoto: same cold and quiet. Gion district less crowded. Temples lit for winter viewing."
    }
  ],
  "food": [
    {
      "dish": "Tsukiji Outer Market sushi",
      "where": "Tokyo",
      "regionId": "tokyo",
      "note": "Nigiri at the counter, standing room, omakase at ¥3,500–¥8,000. Gari ginger palate cleanser. Chef's hands move in silence.",
      "emoji": "🍣",
      "span": 1
    },
    {
      "dish": "Shibuya ramen (shoyu)",
      "where": "Tokyo",
      "regionId": "tokyo",
      "note": "Standing bowl, chicken broth three hours old, bamboo shoots and egg, ¥900. Slurp is mandatory. Back to work in 12 minutes.",
      "emoji": "🍜",
      "span": 1
    },
    {
      "dish": "Monjayaki",
      "where": "Tsukishima, Tokyo",
      "regionId": "tokyo",
      "note": "Okonomiyaki's wetter cousin, cooked in an iron pan at your table, mixed with a small spatula. Seafood and cheese. Shotengai alley.",
      "emoji": "🍳",
      "span": 1
    },
    {
      "dish": "Kaiseki",
      "where": "Kyoto",
      "regionId": "kyoto",
      "note": "14 courses, seasonal, ¥15,000–¥30,000, served by a woman in a kimono who knows the mountain the mushroom came from. Gion's Hakusan.",
      "emoji": "🥘",
      "span": 2
    },
    {
      "dish": "Okonomiyaki",
      "where": "Osaka/Hiroshima",
      "regionId": "osaka",
      "note": "Savory pancake, layered, cooked on griddle, topped with sauce, bonito flakes that move in the heat. Osaka: mayo-heavy. Hiroshima: adds noodles.",
      "emoji": "🥞",
      "span": 2
    },
    {
      "dish": "Hida beef (Takayama)",
      "where": "Takayama",
      "regionId": "taka",
      "note": "Japanese Wagyu, grilled at table (sukiyaki style), marbled like marble. The sake from Takayama makes it taste like the mountains. ¥8,000 per person.",
      "emoji": "🥩",
      "span": 1
    },
    {
      "dish": "Sake brewery tour",
      "where": "Takayama/Kyoto",
      "regionId": "taka",
      "note": "Step into fermentation rooms. Taste unfiltered nama sake (3% alcohol). Takayama has seven breweries in two blocks. Morning tours end by noon.",
      "emoji": "🍶",
      "span": 1
    }
  ],
  "festivals": [
    {
      "num": "01",
      "name": "Gion Matsuri",
      "where": "Kyoto (Gion District)",
      "when": "Jul",
      "text": "Month-long lantern festival. Yamaboko parade (floats with musicians) July 16–17. Locals in yukata, sake vendors, 100,000 onlookers. Sleep in Gion to hear the drums at 6am.",
      "regionId": "kyoto"
    },
    {
      "num": "02",
      "name": "Sumida River Fireworks",
      "where": "Tokyo (Asakusa, Sumida Ward)",
      "when": "Jul",
      "text": "10,000 fireworks, two launch sites, one hour. Arrive by 3pm for riverside seating. Restaurants along the river serve yakitori and beer for ¥5,000 all-you-can. The reflection doubles the display.",
      "regionId": "tokyo"
    },
    {
      "num": "03",
      "name": "Takayama Matsuri (Autumn)",
      "where": "Takayama",
      "when": "Oct",
      "text": "12 ornate floats (yatai), each with a puppet act, parade the old streets at dawn. October 9–10. Local sake flows free. Stay at a ryokan and wake at 5am to see the floats being wheeled out.",
      "regionId": "taka"
    },
    {
      "num": "04",
      "name": "Awa Odori",
      "where": "Tokushima (day trip from Osaka)",
      "when": "Aug",
      "text": "Dance festival, entire town in organized chaos. Millions dance in yukatas and happi coats. Audiences join in. August 12–15. Music, sweat, beer. Trains to Tokushima every 30 minutes from Osaka.",
      "regionId": "osaka"
    },
    {
      "num": "05",
      "name": "Aoi Matsuri",
      "where": "Kyoto (Kamo Shrines)",
      "when": "May",
      "text": "Parade of nobles in Heian dress, oxcarts, music. May 15. Smaller than Gion, more intimate. Line the Kamo River. Locals outnumber tourists; authentic ritual.",
      "regionId": "kyoto"
    }
  ],
  "language": [
    {
      "lc": "すみません",
      "tr": "Sumimasen",
      "note": "Excuse me / I'm sorry / thank you (to a waiter). Solves 80% of daily interactions. Works as apology, attention-getter, gratitude."
    },
    {
      "lc": "ありがとうございます",
      "tr": "Arigatou gozaimasu",
      "note": "Thank you very much (formal). Used at checkout, after meals, when handed something. The longer version of arigatou. Always appreciated."
    },
    {
      "lc": "いくらですか？",
      "tr": "Ikura desu ka?",
      "note": "How much is it? Most menus have prices; street food doesn't. Verbal confirmation avoids awkwardness. Smile when asking."
    },
    {
      "lc": "これをください",
      "tr": "Kore wo kudasai",
      "note": "I'll have this (pointing at food/object). Works in restaurants, markets, shops. Point first, say this second. No apology needed."
    },
    {
      "lc": "英語のメニューはありますか？",
      "tr": "Eigo no menyu wa arimasu ka?",
      "note": "Do you have an English menu? Many restaurants in tourist areas do. If no, point at what other tables eat or use phone translator."
    },
    {
      "lc": "おいしい",
      "tr": "Oishii",
      "note": "Delicious. Say this to the chef after eating. Even if food is mediocre, saying 'oishii' costs nothing and makes the cook smile."
    },
    {
      "lc": "トイレはどこですか？",
      "tr": "Toire wa doko desu ka?",
      "note": "Where is the bathroom? Every station, restaurant, and convenience store has one (clean, free). This phrase used 20 times per visit."
    }
  ],
  "faq": [
    {
      "q": "Do I need to speak Japanese?",
      "a": "No. English is taught in schools; young people and service staff understand basics. Learn 'sumimasen,' 'arigatou,' and 'kudasai.' Carry a phone translator for menus. In Tokyo, English signs are everywhere. In Takayama and rural areas, phone translator is essential. Smiling and pointing work 90% of the time."
    },
    {
      "q": "Is Japan expensive?",
      "a": "Expensive for hotels, cheap for food. A ryokan is ¥15,000–¥25,000 per night. A ramen bowl is ¥800. Sushi at the market is ¥3,500 for omakase. Museums cost ¥1,000–¥2,000. The JR Pass (7 days, ¥29,650) pays for itself in two shinkansen trips. Budget ¥3,000–¥5,000 per day for food if you eat like a local (standing ramen, convenience store onigiri, market sushi)."
    },
    {
      "q": "What's the JR Pass? Should I buy one?",
      "a": "A national railway ticket covering most train lines for unlimited travel in a set period (7, 14, or 21 days). Costs ¥29,650 (7 days). Buy it only if you're doing Tokyo → Kyoto → Osaka → Hiroshima. For two cities, skip it and buy individual tickets. Must purchase before arriving in Japan (at airport). It covers shinkansen (bullet trains) and local trains but not private railways (Hankyu, Keikyu, Odakyu)."
    },
    {
      "q": "When should I avoid Tokyo?",
      "a": "Golden Week (Apr 29–May 5): all trains fully booked, hotels raise prices 30%, shrines flooded. August: peak heat, Obon holidays (Aug 10–20), local families travel, trains packed. Late December and early January: holiday crowds and raised prices. Best months: May–Jun, Sep–Oct, and November (for foliage). January–March is quiet and cold."
    },
    {
      "q": "Should I rent a car?",
      "a": "No. Tokyo traffic is nightmarish; parking is ¥5,000–¥10,000 per night. The train system is faster, cheaper, and safer. In Takayama and rural Kansai, a car is useful but not necessary (buses and local trains work). If driving, get an International Driving Permit from your home country before arriving. Rental cars are ¥7,000–¥10,000 per day, automatic only."
    },
    {
      "q": "Is it safe?",
      "a": "Yes. Tokyo and Kyoto are among the world's safest cities. Pickpockets exist only on the most crowded trains (Shibuya Line at 8am). Police are visible and helpful. Cash carries no risk (Japan is 95% safe, theft of any kind is culturally unthinkable). Women traveling alone are safe everywhere except very late at night in drunk entertainment areas."
    },
    {
      "q": "What time do restaurants close?",
      "a": "Lunch service (11am–2pm) and dinner service (5pm–11pm), with a gap in between. Ramen shops open late (2am not uncommon). Convenience stores (7-Eleven, Lawson, FamilyMart) are open 24 hours and have hot food. Michelin restaurants book months ahead; casual places accept walk-ins until they're full. Tipping is not done and is actually insulting."
    }
  ]
};