/* eslint-disable */ // Auto-generated destination data — cdmx window.CDMX_DATA = { "chrome": { "hero": { "kicker": "HowTo:Travel · Americas · Mexico", "h1Lines": [ "Mexico City is not", "a capital. It is", "a argument with itself." ], "issueLabel": "Issue Nº 47 · Mexico City guide · Updated April 2026", "lede": "Eleven million people arguing in Spanish, building on water, eating tacos at midnight, and pretending the smog isn't there. The city invented itself three times — Aztec, Spanish, Mexican — and never stopped. Sleep in Roma. Eat in Condesa. Dance until dawn in Coyoacán. The Centro is baroque and broken and the most beautiful thing you'll see.", "stats": "5 neighborhoods · 3 palaces · 2 million tacos daily · 1 city, infinite versions", "metaRows": [ { "k": "Currency", "v": "Mexican Peso (MXN); US dollars accepted in tourist zones" }, { "k": "Plug type", "v": "Type A (US standard); 120V, 60Hz" }, { "k": "Visa for US/UK", "v": "Not required; 180-day tourist permit on arrival" }, { "k": "Best for first-timers", "v": "October–November; April–May. Avoid August (humidity) and December (crowds)" }, { "k": "Language", "v": "Spanish (Mexican Spanish). English spoken in upmarket areas; gesture everywhere else" } ], "frames": [ { "img": "https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1518136247453-74e7b5265980?w=600&auto=format", "cap": "Centro Histórico · Templo Mayor, 19°N" }, { "img": "https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1489749798305-4fea3ba63d60?w=600&auto=format", "cap": "Condesa · Parque España, morning light" }, { "img": "https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1506905925346-21bda4d32df4?w=600&auto=format", "cap": "Roma · Álvaro Obregón corner, dusk" } ] }, "anchor": { "label": "In this guide", "items": [ { "id": "intro", "label": "Letter" }, { "id": "neighborhoods", "label": "Neighborhoods" }, { "id": "cities", "label": "Essential stops" }, { "id": "trains", "label": "Getting around" }, { "id": "when", "label": "When to go" }, { "id": "food", "label": "What to eat" }, { "id": "festivals", "label": "Events" }, { "id": "language", "label": "Phrases" }, { "id": "faq", "label": "FAQ" } ] }, "intro": { "lead": "Mexico City was built on a lake the Aztecs drained. For five centuries it has been sinking, flooding, and rebuilding itself. The Spanish destroyed Tenochtitlán and built a baroque capital on its bones. The Mexican Revolution happened here. The muralists — Rivera, Siqueiros, Orozco — painted their argument across its walls. Today it is a city of twelve million opinions, two thousand restaurants, and the clearest light you've ever seen in a city this big. It is reckless and learned and obsessed with food and art and argument.", "side": "The smog is real but no worse than LA. October is perfect — cool, clear, the rainy season finished. December brings holiday crowds and Posadas festivals. Come in November or April–May if you want the city less fevered. Avoid August unless you love humidity and closed restaurants.", "credit": "— The editors · Mexico City · March 2026" }, "signoff": { "h2": "Stay three days minimum.", "body": "One for Centro and Templo Mayor. One for Roma and Condesa and the museums. One for Coyoacán, for wandering, for late dinners, for understanding that Mexico City is a city built for people who want to be awake at midnight.", "credit": "— The editors" } }, "neighborhoods": [ { "num": "01", "name": "Roma", "nameEm": "& Condesa", "city": "Mexico City", "regionId": "cdmx", "text": "Tree-lined avenues, art nouveau buildings, galleries hidden in converted mansions. Roma is cafés and young things. Condesa is older money, a circle of parks, aperitivos at sunset, the city's best bookshops and the best restaurants that don't have reservations. Both are where locals actually live.", "why": "Where the real city still happens — not sanitized, not colonial, just lived-in and beautiful." }, { "num": "02", "name": "Centro Histórico", "nameEm": "The Old City", "city": "Mexico City", "regionId": "cdmx", "text": "The Aztec city. The Spanish city. The baroque palaces, the Zócalo, the Templo Mayor rising from under the earth like a memory. The Palacio Nacional with Rivera's murals running its walls. The Catedral on top of the Aztec temple. Every building is an argument between empires.", "why": "To understand that this city has been five cities at once, and still is." }, { "num": "03", "name": "Coyoacán", "nameEm": "Village South", "city": "Mexico City", "regionId": "cdmx", "text": "Twenty minutes south, and suddenly it's a village. Cobbled plazas, Frida's blue house, bookshops that close at midnight but stay open, mezcal bars where people argue about poetry. The Museo de Identidad Mexicana, the Casa de León Trotsky, the way the light falls on the Iglesia de San Juan Bautista.", "why": "To remember that even a capital can have quiet corners where the city feels like choice rather than necessity." }, { "num": "04", "name": "San Ángel", "nameEm": "The Artist's Neighborhood", "city": "Mexico City", "regionId": "cdmx", "text": "Cobbles and gardens and galleries. Diego Rivera lived here, painted here, fought here. The Bazar de Sábado — Saturday art market in a hidden plaza — is where the city's painters and sculptors still gather. Smaller than Coyoacán, less touristy, better for getting lost.", "why": "For the proof that Mexico City was once a series of small towns, and parts of it still are." }, { "num": "05", "name": "La Roma Norte", "nameEm": "The Bohemian Corner", "city": "Mexico City", "regionId": "cdmx", "text": "Juárez runs north-south, Álvaro Obregón east-west, and in between is the city's most concentrated argument about coffee, design, and how late breakfast should be served. Vintage shops, roastery cafés, galleries above taco stands, mezcalerias with no sign.", "why": "To understand that in Mexico City, a neighborhood isn't a place — it's a time of day and a mood." } ], "cities": [ { "name": "Mexico City", "pop": 8.8, "region": "Mexico", "regionId": "cdmx", "img": "https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1518136247453-74e7b5265980?w=900&auto=format", "days": "3–4", "mood": "Baroque, reckless, erudite, nocturnal", "best": "October–November · April–May", "quote": "Sleep in Roma. Eat everywhere else. Don't leave Centro until sunset." } ], "trains": [ { "route": "Mexico City ↔ Querétaro", "time": "3h", "op": "Bajío Express (private); FFCC Mexicanos (national)", "note": "Scenic high-altitude route. Book in advance; trains sometimes cancel." }, { "route": "Mexico City ↔ Veracruz", "time": "11h", "op": "No direct rail service; coach buses recommended instead", "note": "ADO and Cristóbal Colón run multiple daily buses; overnight options available." }, { "route": "Metro system (L1–L12)", "time": "Varies; flat fare", "op": "Sistema de Transporte Colectivo (metro)", "note": "Fast, cheap, crowded. Women-only cars in early morning. Don't carry bags above your lap." }, { "route": "Mexico City ↔ Toluca", "time": "1h", "op": "Coach buses; no rail", "note": "For day trips to market towns and colonial silver cities nearby." }, { "route": "Peseros (shared vans)", "time": "Varies by destination", "op": "Private operators; hail on street", "note": "Chaotic, unmapped, cheaper than taxis. Point where you want to go; they'll tell you if they're heading that way." } ], "when": [ { "m": "Jan", "n": "Cool, clear, post-holiday. Posadas festivals ending. Fewer tourists than December. Smog minimal." }, { "m": "Feb", "n": "Steady state. Cold mornings (around 12°C), warm afternoons. Restaurant reservations opening up. Good month." }, { "m": "Mar", "n": "Spring begins. Warmer. Wildflowers in Xochimilco. Still dry season; air quality good." }, { "m": "Apr", "n": "One of the best months. Warm, clear, just before rainy season. Easter crowds possible." }, { "m": "May", "n": "Warm. Rainy season beginning — usually afternoon showers, not all-day. Air quality still good. Expect crowds." }, { "m": "Jun", "n": "Rainy, humid, warm. Tacos taste better. Mezcal bars crowded in evenings. Fewer tourists than you'd expect." }, { "m": "Jul", "n": "Rainy season peak. Morning sunshine, afternoon downpours. Locals on vacation; hotels cheaper." }, { "m": "Aug", "n": "Hottest and most humid month. Air quality poor. Schools closed; families away. Many restaurants closed 2-3 weeks. Avoid unless you're here for a reason." }, { "m": "Sep", "n": "Rain continues but easing. Independence Day (16th) means celebrations, parades, crowded Centro. After the 20th, summer crowd clears." }, { "m": "Oct", "n": "Perfect. Cool, clear, dry. Rainy season finished. Blue skies. Second-best month after April. Reservations recommended." }, { "m": "Nov", "n": "Excellent. Cool, clear, and before holiday season. Day of the Dead (1-2 Nov) brings festivals, marigolds, calacas in streets." }, { "m": "Dec", "n": "Holiday crowds, Posadas festivals (Dec 16-24), expensive hotels. Beautiful but frenzied. Good for the novelty; bad for solitude." } ], "food": [ { "dish": "Tacos al pastor", "where": "México", "regionId": "cdmx", "note": "Meat roasted on a vertical spit, shaved onto blue corn, with fresh pineapple. Eaten standing, at midnight, with lime and habanero.", "emoji": "🌮", "span": 1 }, { "dish": "Mole negro", "where": "Oaxaca-via-CDMX", "regionId": "cdmx", "note": "Thirty ingredients ground into a sauce that tastes like history. Black, bitter-sweet, served with chicken. A argument in a bowl.", "emoji": "🍲", "span": 2 }, { "dish": "Caldo de camarón", "where": "Centro, near Templo Mayor", "regionId": "cdmx", "note": "Shrimp broth with lime, chilhuacle chiles, served at 7am with bolillo bread. A hangover cure that became a ritual.", "emoji": "🦐", "span": 1 }, { "dish": "Enchiladas verdes", "where": "Everywhere", "regionId": "cdmx", "note": "Corn tortillas rolled with chicken, smothered in green tomatillo sauce and crema. The comfort food of the capital.", "emoji": "🌶️", "span": 1 }, { "dish": "Tamales oaxaqueños", "where": "Street vendors, pre-dawn", "regionId": "cdmx", "note": "Masa wrapped in banana leaves with mole. Sold from pushcarts at 6am. Yellow corn, red mole, rich. One is not enough.", "emoji": "🌽", "span": 1 }, { "dish": "Pan de muerto", "where": "Everywhere, November–December", "regionId": "cdmx", "note": "Sweet bread shaped like a skull, orange blossom flavored, dusted with sugar. Day of the Dead staple. Addictive.", "emoji": "💀", "span": 1 }, { "dish": "Mezcal", "where": "San Ángel, Coyoacán, Roma", "regionId": "cdmx", "note": "Agave spirit from Oaxaca. Often served neat, with a slice of lime and sal de gusano (worm salt). A meditation, not a shot.", "emoji": "🥃", "span": 1 } ], "festivals": [ { "num": "01", "name": "Día de Muertos", "where": "Citywide; Coyoacán particularly", "when": "November 1–2", "text": "Altars in homes and museums. Marigolds, skulls of sugar, ofrendas. The city becomes a conversation with the dead. Markets overflow with pan de muerto and orange flowers.", "regionId": "cdmx" }, { "num": "02", "name": "Desfile del Día de Muertos", "where": "Paseo de la Reforma", "when": "October 28–November 2", "text": "A parade of floats, catrinas (skeleton figures), live music. Downtown closes for the night. Hundreds of thousands of people painted like skulls dancing to banda.", "regionId": "cdmx" }, { "num": "03", "name": "Grito de Independencia", "where": "Zócalo", "when": "September 15–16", "text": "The president re-enacts Miguel Hidalgo's 1810 independence cry from the Palacio Nacional. Fireworks, crowds, 'Viva México' chants until dawn. Expect gridlock.", "regionId": "cdmx" }, { "num": "04", "name": "Posadas", "where": "Neighborhoods, especially Coyoacán", "when": "December 16–24", "text": "Re-enactments of Mary and Joseph seeking shelter before Jesus's birth. Processions, piñatas, hot punch. Every neighborhood celebrates differently; some nights better organized than others.", "regionId": "cdmx" }, { "num": "05", "name": "Bazar de Sábado", "where": "San Ángel", "when": "Saturdays, year-round", "text": "Art market in a garden courtyard. Painters, sculptors, printmakers, jewelers selling work directly. Morning is best — quieter, lighter. Café nearby serves decent coffee.", "regionId": "cdmx" }, { "num": "06", "name": "Festival de México en el Centro", "where": "Centro Histórico", "when": "November–December (dates vary)", "text": "Dance, theater, music performances across historic plazas. Free street performances. The city performing itself back into being.", "regionId": "cdmx" } ], "language": [ { "lc": "¿Dónde está la estación del metro?", "tr": "Where is the metro station?", "note": "Crucial question. Taxis overcharge tourists; metro is fast, cheap, and where the real city lives." }, { "lc": "Un café con pan dulce, por favor.", "tr": "A coffee and sweet bread, please.", "note": "Standard breakfast order. Pan dulce means 'sweet bread' — conchas (shells), orejas (ears), anything sugar-coated. Eaten standing at a counter." }, { "lc": "¿Cuánto cuesta?", "tr": "How much does it cost?", "note": "In markets and street stalls, always ask. In restaurants with menus, prices are fixed. Haggling works in markets; not elsewhere." }, { "lc": "Mezcal, por favor. Sin gusano.", "tr": "Mezcal, please. Without the worm.", "note": "The worm (actually a larva) is a myth perpetuated by tourists. Real mezcal drinkers don't ask for it. Say 'sin gusano' to avoid being sold to." }, { "lc": "La cuenta, por favor.", "tr": "The bill, please.", "note": "Restaurants don't bring the check unless asked. Tipping is not mandatory but 10–15% is customary in sit-down restaurants." }, { "lc": "Hablo poquito español.", "tr": "I speak a little Spanish.", "note": "Mexicans are patient with language learners. This phrase buys you goodwill. They'll slow down if you ask 'más lentamente, por favor.'" }, { "lc": "¿Es seguro aquí?", "tr": "Is it safe here?", "note": "Asking locals about neighborhood safety is reasonable and respected. Avoid certain areas after dark; ask your hotel. Most of Roma, Condesa, Centro are fine at night." }, { "lc": "Está delicioso.", "tr": "It's delicious.", "note": "Use this freely. Mexicans take food seriously. A compliment to the cook is never wasted." } ], "faq": [ { "q": "Is Mexico City safe?", "a": "Yes and no. Roma, Condesa, Centro, Coyoacán, San Ángel are safe during the day and evening — millions of people live and work there normally. At night, stick to well-lit streets and use registered taxis (white with a light on top) or Uber. Avoid pickpockets on the metro (keep bags in front of your body). Use common sense. Don't flash expensive cameras or jewelry. Avoid the north of the city entirely. Most tourists experience zero problems." }, { "q": "Do I need Spanish?", "a": "No, but it helps enormously. Hotels, upscale restaurants, museums have English speakers. Street vendors, taquerias, peseros, markets — Spanish is essential. Download Google Translate's offline mode. Learn five phrases: 'donde está,' 'cuánto cuesta,' 'gracias,' 'otra,' and 'la cuenta.' That will open most doors." }, { "q": "How do I get around?", "a": "The metro is fast, cheap (flat fare: about 25 cents), and the way locals move. Get a rechargeable tarjeta card from any station. Taxis are expensive for tourists because drivers assume we don't know better — use Uber or Didi (local app). Peseros (shared vans) are chaotic, unmapped, but faster and cheaper than taxis if you know where you're going. Walk Roma and Condesa; they're flat and organized. Centro is walkable but overwhelming — hire a guide for Templo Mayor." }, { "q": "When is the best time to visit?", "a": "October and April are perfect — cool mornings, warm afternoons, clear skies, no rain. November is excellent but pricier due to Day of the Dead. May is warm and just before the rainy season. June-August are hot, humid, and many restaurants close mid-month. December is festive but crowded and expensive. Avoid August unless you have no choice." }, { "q": "What's the biggest mistake travelers make?", "a": "Staying only in Centro Histórico and missing the real city. Centro is baroque and important historically, but it's not where Mexicans live or eat well. Sleep in Roma or Condesa. Spend one day in Centro (Templo Mayor, Palacio Nacional, Catedral), then forget about it. Also: eating at tourist restaurants on the Zócalo instead of asking locals where they eat. The best food is street food, market stalls, and restaurants that don't advertise." }, { "q": "How much should I budget per day?", "a": "Budget travel: $40–60 (hostels, street food, metro). Mid-range: $80–150 (decent hotels, restaurant meals, guides). Luxury: $200+. Food is incredibly cheap — a full meal from a street vendor is $2–4. Hotels range from $25 (hostel) to $300+ (five-star). Museums cost $3–8. The city is forgiving of tight budgets." }, { "q": "Should I rent a car?", "a": "Absolutely not. Mexico City traffic is anarchic, drivers are aggressive, and you'll waste money on parking. The metro is faster. If you want to leave the city for colonial towns (Querétaro, Taxco, Puebla), take a bus or train. Peseros and Uber work fine for inter-neighborhood travel. Save your money and your nerves." }, { "q": "What about the air quality?", "a": "The smog is real and visible, particularly March–May and again in the summer. It's not worse than Los Angeles or Delhi, but it exists. October–December and January–February have the clearest air. If you have asthma or respiratory issues, check AirVisual's app before booking. For most visitors, it's annoying but not dangerous. Avoid outdoor exercise during the afternoon when pollution peaks." } ] };