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// Auto-generated destination data — lalibela
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  "chrome": {
    "hero": {
      "kicker": "HowTo:Travel · Africa · Ethiopia",
      "h1Lines": [
        "The churches",
        "are cut from stone.",
        "The pilgrims are cut from faith."
      ],
      "issueLabel": "Issue Nº 47 · Ethiopia field guide · Updated April 2026",
      "lede": "Ethiopia is the only African nation never colonized, and it shows. The Orthodox churches aren't built — they're excavated downward into red volcanic rock, their crosses carved in reverse, their priests still singing in Ge'ez, a language older than Latin. Lalibela is where eleven of them cluster in a single town, hewn between the 12th and 13th centuries by an emperor who dreamed of Jerusalem and built it here instead.",
      "stats": "11 rock-hewn churches · 7 pilgrimage routes · 1 ancient kingdom · 2,600 metres elevation",
      "metaRows": [
        {
          "k": "Currency",
          "v": "Ethiopian Birr (ETB)"
        },
        {
          "k": "Plug type",
          "v": "Type C, E (European)"
        },
        {
          "k": "Visa for US/UK",
          "v": "On arrival or e-visa (60 days)"
        },
        {
          "k": "Best for first-timers",
          "v": "Lalibela + Axum + Addis Ababa"
        },
        {
          "k": "Language",
          "v": "Amharic · English spoken in towns"
        }
      ],
      "frames": [
        {
          "img": "https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1597373877506-c17e15c69c81?w=600&auto=format",
          "cap": "Bet Medhane Alem, Lalibela · 2,627m"
        },
        {
          "img": "https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1599710028544-cc4f9d3a4c69?w=600&auto=format",
          "cap": "Timkat procession, Addis Ababa · January"
        },
        {
          "img": "https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1516426122078-c23e76319801?w=600&auto=format",
          "cap": "Danakil Depression · 116m below sea level"
        }
      ]
    },
    "anchor": {
      "label": "In this guide",
      "items": [
        {
          "id": "intro",
          "label": "Letter"
        },
        {
          "id": "drives",
          "label": "Drives"
        },
        {
          "id": "when",
          "label": "Calendar"
        },
        {
          "id": "food",
          "label": "Food"
        },
        {
          "id": "language",
          "label": "Phrases"
        },
        {
          "id": "faq",
          "label": "FAQ"
        }
      ]
    },
    "intro": {
      "lead": "Stand inside Bet Medhane Alem at dawn — you're forty feet below ground level, in a church carved from a single block of stone, its columns still supporting a ceiling that has held for 900 years. Priests in white cotton shammas chant in Ge'ez while incense smoke curls upward into the dim. Outside, the town of Lalibela wakes around you: donkeys on cobbles, coffee being roasted in small clay pots, pilgrims arriving on foot from villages three days' walk away. This is not a museum. It is still being worshipped in.",
      "side": "Ethiopia's calendar runs seven to eight years behind the Gregorian calendar and uses a 12-month lunar system, so Timkat (Epiphany) falls in January, not December. The country observes 13 months of sunshine — literally — with the rainy season (kiremt) June to September turning the highlands emerald. Bring layers: altitude swings from 116m below sea level in the Danakil to 4,620m on Ras Dashen.",
      "credit": "— The editors · Addis Ababa · March 2026"
    },
    "signoff": {
      "h2": "A pilgrimage, not a tour",
      "body": "Ethiopia demands slowness. The churches aren't sprints between photo stops. They're places where pilgrims have wept for centuries. Spend three days in Lalibela. Walk the underground passages. Attend a 4am matins service. Eat injera with your hands. Then walk up into the highlands and find smaller churches — Nakuta La'ab, Abuna Yemata Guh — that tourists haven't yet mapped.",
      "credit": "— The editors"
    }
  },
  "drives": [
    {
      "id": "axum-adwa",
      "num": "01",
      "name": "The Axumite Road",
      "nameEm": "Axum to Adwa",
      "region": "Tigray",
      "regionId": "tigray",
      "from": "Axum",
      "to": "Adwa",
      "km": 65,
      "hours": 2.5,
      "elevMax": 2480,
      "elevMin": 1950,
      "season": "October–March (dry season only)",
      "surface": "Asphalt, some washboard past Adwa",
      "car": "4WD advisable; high-clearance sedan acceptable in dry",
      "blurb": "From the stelae fields of Axum — the seat of an empire that rivalled Rome — through villages where Tigrayans still speak Ge'ez prayers, to the battleground of Adwa where Ethiopia defeated Italy in 1896. Stop at the Church of Maryam Tsion, where Ethiopians believe the Ark of the Covenant rests.",
      "stops": [
        "Axum",
        "Wukro",
        "Mekelle checkpoint",
        "Adwa",
        "Tsion Church"
      ],
      "tip": "Leave at 6am to avoid arriving after dark. Fuel in Axum — stations are sparse thereafter.",
      "profile": [
        1950,
        2100,
        2250,
        2400,
        2480,
        2350,
        2150,
        2050,
        1980,
        1970,
        1965
      ]
    },
    {
      "id": "lalibela-gorge",
      "num": "02",
      "name": "The Gorge Road",
      "nameEm": "Lalibela Circuit",
      "region": "Amhara",
      "regionId": "amhara",
      "from": "Lalibela",
      "to": "Lalibela (circuit)",
      "km": 48,
      "hours": 5,
      "elevMax": 2740,
      "elevMin": 2450,
      "season": "September–May",
      "surface": "Dirt track, rocky in places; passable on foot or with mule",
      "car": "4WD only; or walk with a guide",
      "blurb": "A full-day circuit on foot or by 4WD through the stone churches of Lalibela's western cluster: Bet Abba Libanos, the smallest; Bet Giorgis, the most photographed; Bet Mariam and Bet Meskel completing the underground city. Descend into each one. The scale only reads from inside.",
      "stops": [
        "Bet Giorgis",
        "Bet Mariam",
        "Bet Meskel",
        "Bet Danaghel",
        "Bet Golgotha"
      ],
      "tip": "Hire a local guide (₿200–300/day). They know which churches allow photography and which require donation-only access.",
      "profile": [
        2600,
        2680,
        2740,
        2720,
        2650,
        2550,
        2480,
        2500,
        2620,
        2650,
        2600
      ]
    },
    {
      "id": "danakil-afar",
      "num": "03",
      "name": "Into the Rift",
      "nameEm": "Mekelle to Erta Ale",
      "region": "Afar",
      "regionId": "afar",
      "from": "Mekelle",
      "to": "Erta Ale",
      "km": 280,
      "hours": 10,
      "elevMax": 613,
      "elevMin": 116,
      "season": "November–February (only — temperatures exceed 50°C March–September)",
      "surface": "Four-wheel-drive track; support convoy required",
      "car": "4WD with high clearance; travel in convoy with armed escort (mandatory)",
      "blurb": "The Danakil Depression: the hottest, lowest, most alien landscape on Earth. You descend into a moon-scape of yellow sulfur springs, salt formations, and a live lava lake (Erta Ale). Armed security is non-negotiable; travel with an operator. The landscape is merciless. Respect it.",
      "stops": [
        "Mekelle",
        "Berhale salt plains",
        "Dallol sulfur vents",
        "Erta Ale camp",
        "Lava lake summit"
      ],
      "tip": "Book through an operator (Addis Ababa travel agencies arrange this). Never self-drive. Bring 4+ litres of water per person per day. Start before dawn.",
      "profile": [
        2300,
        2100,
        1600,
        800,
        400,
        300,
        200,
        150,
        116,
        200,
        613
      ]
    },
    {
      "id": "simien-mountains",
      "num": "04",
      "name": "The Edge of Africa",
      "nameEm": "Debark Circuit",
      "region": "Amhara",
      "regionId": "amhara",
      "from": "Debark",
      "to": "Debark (circuit)",
      "km": 60,
      "hours": 8,
      "elevMax": 4620,
      "elevMin": 2600,
      "season": "October–April",
      "surface": "Hiking trails; 4WD track to trailhead",
      "car": "4WD to Debark; then trek on foot with guide and scout",
      "blurb": "The Simien Mountains: jagged ridges, endemic Walia ibex, and the second-highest peak in Africa (Ras Dashen, 4,620m). A three-day trek from Debark. Sleep in stone enclosures (tukuls). Eat what the villagers eat. Descend into misty canyons where few Westerners have walked.",
      "stops": [
        "Debark",
        "Geech camp",
        "Ras Dashen",
        "Chenek camp",
        "Ambiko"
      ],
      "tip": "Hire a guide in Debark; trek fees include park entry and mandatory armed scout (political sensitivity). Best views at sunrise from Ras Dashen.",
      "profile": [
        2700,
        3200,
        3800,
        4620,
        4500,
        4100,
        3600,
        3200,
        3000,
        2800,
        2600
      ]
    },
    {
      "id": "addis-jimma",
      "num": "05",
      "name": "Coffee Country",
      "nameEm": "Addis Ababa to Jimma",
      "region": "Oromia",
      "regionId": "oromia",
      "from": "Addis Ababa",
      "to": "Jimma",
      "km": 350,
      "hours": 8,
      "elevMax": 2400,
      "elevMin": 1500,
      "season": "Year-round (Oct–Feb clearest)",
      "surface": "Asphalt highway, well-maintained",
      "car": "Sedan acceptable; 4WD for side roads to estates",
      "blurb": "The road to Jimma cuts through the birthplace of Arabica coffee. Detour into private estates near Limu and Konga to watch the harvest (Nov–Dec) and meet farmers who still process coffee the way their ancestors did — on raised beds, by hand, under shade trees. Stop in Adama for injera and tej (honey wine) at a local tej house.",
      "stops": [
        "Addis Ababa",
        "Adama",
        "Bishoftu",
        "Limu estate region",
        "Jimma"
      ],
      "tip": "Visit a family-owned farm through an operator; direct contact with producers is richer than estate tours.",
      "profile": [
        2355,
        2200,
        1950,
        1850,
        1700,
        1600,
        1550,
        1500,
        1520,
        1650,
        1750
      ]
    }
  ],
  "when": [
    {
      "m": "Jan",
      "n": "Timkat (Epiphany) fills churches and streets. Pilgrims arrive three days early. Lalibela is crowded but sacred.",
      "s": "Dry and cool. Danakil becomes possible. Addis Ababa: perfect light, 15°C mornings."
    },
    {
      "m": "Feb",
      "n": "Post-Timkat. Tourist season peaks. Lalibela still crowded; quieter churches reward early rising.",
      "s": "Warm days, cold nights. Simien Mountains best for trekking. Wildflowers begin."
    },
    {
      "m": "Mar",
      "n": "Heat builds. Danakil becomes dangerous (50°C+). Lalibela emptier after mid-month.",
      "s": "Last chance for Danakil before summer. Axum–Adwa road still passable."
    },
    {
      "m": "Apr",
      "n": "Kiremt (rains) arrive mid-month. Roads start degrading. Addis Ababa cools and greens.",
      "s": "April rains fill reservoirs; highlands spectacular but muddy. Tourist season ends."
    },
    {
      "m": "May",
      "n": "Heavy rains in mountains. Many roads impassable. Tourist infrastructure minimal.",
      "s": "Green season begins. Fewer tourists. Harder logistics. For committed travelers only."
    },
    {
      "m": "Jun",
      "n": "Kiremt at peak. Lalibela and Simiens wet and slippery. Not recommended.",
      "s": "Rainy season. Roads muddy. However: fewer tourists, dramatic skies, lower prices."
    },
    {
      "m": "Jul",
      "n": "Rain continues. Lalibela quieter, mossy, atmospheric. Infrastructure: challenging.",
      "s": "Wet and warm. Danakil impossible. Addis Ababa cool and wet."
    },
    {
      "m": "Aug",
      "n": "End of kiremt. Roads begin drying. Schools out; local tourist traffic increases.",
      "s": "Still wet but improving. Lalibela recovering. Avoid if possible; logistics difficult."
    },
    {
      "m": "Sep",
      "n": "Dry season begins. Roads passable again. Tourist season resumes mid-month.",
      "s": "Perfect weather. Temperatures moderate (20–28°C). Landscapes still green. Prime season starts."
    },
    {
      "m": "Oct",
      "n": "Peak season opens. Dry, cool, clear. Lalibela crowded. Book ahead.",
      "s": "Ideal: sunny days, cool mornings, no rain. Danakil, Axum–Adwa, Simien all open."
    },
    {
      "m": "Nov",
      "n": "Coffee harvest in Jimma and Limu. Temperatures perfect. Tourist numbers high.",
      "s": "Dry season peak. Coolest mornings (12°C in Simien). Addis Ababa: balmy. Coffee season."
    },
    {
      "m": "Dec",
      "n": "Pre-Timkat preparation. Churches busy with pilgrims arriving for January. Slightly quieter than Oct.",
      "s": "Clear, dry, cool. Tourist season at maximum pre-Timkat. Best month after Oct."
    }
  ],
  "food": [
    {
      "dish": "Injera",
      "where": "Everywhere",
      "regionId": "nationwide",
      "note": "Spongy fermented teff flatbread, slightly tangy. Plate, platter, and utensil all in one. Tear and scoop with your right hand.",
      "emoji": "🍞",
      "span": 1
    },
    {
      "dish": "Doro Wat",
      "where": "Lalibela, Addis Ababa",
      "regionId": "amhara",
      "note": "Chicken stewed for hours in berbere spice (chilli, fenugreek, coriander) with hard-boiled eggs. Thick, warming, deeply savoury.",
      "emoji": "🍗",
      "span": 1
    },
    {
      "dish": "Kitfo",
      "where": "Addis Ababa, Adama",
      "regionId": "oromia",
      "note": "Minced raw beef mixed with niter kibbeh (clarified butter infused with spices). Earthy, rich, slightly gamey. Fresh and dangerous.",
      "emoji": "🥩",
      "span": 1
    },
    {
      "dish": "Shiro",
      "where": "Everywhere",
      "regionId": "nationwide",
      "note": "Chickpea or bean flour cooked into a creamy paste with onion and ginger. Vegetarian, warming, the taste of home cooking.",
      "emoji": "🥣",
      "span": 1
    },
    {
      "dish": "Tej",
      "where": "Tej houses (everywhere)",
      "regionId": "nationwide",
      "note": "Honey wine, mead-like, gently fermented with herbs and spices. Drunk warm from a small glass. Ceremony in itself.",
      "emoji": "🍯",
      "span": 1
    },
    {
      "dish": "Tibs",
      "where": "Addis Ababa, Axum",
      "regionId": "nationwide",
      "note": "Sautéed beef or lamb with vegetables, garlic, and ginger on a sizzling plate. Street food and fine dining in one.",
      "emoji": "🍳",
      "span": 1
    },
    {
      "dish": "Ethiopian coffee ceremony",
      "where": "Everywhere; best in Jimma",
      "regionId": "oromia",
      "note": "Roasted beans ground by hand, brewed in a jebena (clay pot), served in tiny handleless cups with incense. An hour of ritual and conversation.",
      "emoji": "☕",
      "span": 2
    }
  ],
  "language": [
    {
      "lc": "ሰላም",
      "tr": "Selam",
      "note": "Hello. Plural: selem. The standard greeting, returned by repeating it back."
    },
    {
      "lc": "ደблагодарю ዎት",
      "tr": "Ameseginalehu",
      "note": "Thank you (formal, plural). Informally: ameseginale. Always used after meals."
    },
    {
      "lc": "ባፊ ነው",
      "tr": "Bafi new",
      "note": "It is good. Said about food, places, experiences. The highest compliment."
    },
    {
      "lc": "ኢንጀራ ጋር",
      "tr": "Injera gar",
      "note": "Literally 'with injera.' Common way to order a meal — the bread arrives with whatever you choose."
    },
    {
      "lc": "ውሃ",
      "tr": "Wuha",
      "note": "Water. Essential word. Bottled water (mineral) is wuha me'e."
    },
    {
      "lc": "ስንት ዋጋ?",
      "tr": "Sint waga?",
      "note": "How much? Always ask in markets. Prices are rarely posted."
    },
    {
      "lc": "ላይ ናት",
      "tr": "Lai nat",
      "note": "God bless you. Said when someone thanks you; the expected response to gratitude."
    },
    {
      "lc": "ወደ ሕዳሴ",
      "tr": "Wede Hidasse",
      "note": "To Lalibela (direction). Literally 'toward Hidasse.' Place names as destinations."
    }
  ],
  "faq": [
    {
      "q": "Is it safe to travel in Ethiopia right now?",
      "a": "The Tigray region saw armed conflict 2020–2022; it is reopening to tourism. Check your government's travel advisory. Lalibela (in Amhara) and Addis Ababa are safe and welcoming. The Danakil and Simien Mountains require armed escorts (government-mandated) and a trusted operator. Never self-drive in remote areas. Hire guides; they keep you safe and employ locals."
    },
    {
      "q": "Do I need vaccinations?",
      "a": "Yellow fever vaccination is required for entry and strongly recommended before travel. Malaria prophylaxis advisable for lower-altitude regions (Danakil, Oromia). Typhoid and hepatitis A vaccines recommended. Visit a travel clinic 4–6 weeks before departure. Tap water in Addis Ababa is generally safe; boil or use bottled in rural areas."
    },
    {
      "q": "What's the best way to see the churches without joining a tour?",
      "a": "Hire a local guide in Lalibela (find through your guesthouse). They cost ₿300–500/day and unlock stories no tour script includes. Most guides are former priests or village elders. Guides also navigate the complex access protocols — some churches are free, others donation-only, some photographable only from outside. Don't try to do this alone; it's disrespectful and you'll miss everything."
    },
    {
      "q": "How do I get to Lalibela?",
      "a": "Ethiopian Airlines flies Addis Ababa to Lalibela daily (1 hour, ~$100 one-way). Overland is 10–12 hours by minibus (share taxi) but cheaper (~₿300). Flights book months in advance in October–December. If flying is full, the minibus from Addis Ababa via Debre Birhan is slow but cultural: you meet farmers, merchants, pilgrims. Bring snacks and patience."
    },
    {
      "q": "Can I attend a Timkat service if I'm not Orthodox?",
      "a": "Yes, with respect. Dress modestly (shoulders, knees covered). Ask permission before photographing. Timkat is sacred, not a spectacle. The main procession (streets) is public; the water blessing (at dawn) is the real ceremony — arrive by 4am, stand quietly, don't use flash. Many travelers find 4am singing the most moving moment of their trip."
    },
    {
      "q": "What should I bring?",
      "a": "Layers: altitude swings from 116m (Danakil) to 4,620m (Simien). Bring a light jacket for highlands mornings (10–15°C). Sunscreen and sunglasses essential at high altitude. A headlamp (churches are dim). Modest dress expected — women: long skirts/trousers, covered shoulders. Men: long trousers, covered shoulders in churches. Comfortable walking shoes (churches require removal inside, but paths are rocky). Hand sanitizer. Diarrhea is common; bring imodium."
    },
    {
      "q": "How much money do I need per day?",
      "a": "Budget ₿1,000–2,000/day ($5–10 USD) if staying in guesthouses, eating local meals, and traveling overland. Addis Ababa and tourist sites are pricier; mid-range hotels are ₿800–1,200/night. Guide fees (₿300–500/day) add up. Guide and entry fees to churches (donations ₿50–100 per church) accumulate. ATMs work in cities; bring cash for remote areas. Exchange rates fluctuate; carry US dollars as backup."
    }
  ]
};